O Chamé--that California/Japanese noodle house on Fourth Street--has been another restaurant on my list for a while.
Like À Côté, O Chamé is maligned on message boards like citysearch for its prices and portion sizes. This is usually a sign that the restaurant is actually quite good as anyone who really cares about portion sizes is either lazy, a fat-ass, or a lazy fat-ass. Just saying.
Anyway, finally got to O Chamé for a Wednesday dinner with ex-roommate Cassie. I was impressed with the quality and value, though nothing was particularly interesting. The ingredients were very fresh, portions were plentiful, and the price was incredibly reasonable. I left full for a price half that of restaurants of comparable.
To begin we had vinegared cucumber and radish, tofu dumplings in broth, and fried Japanese eggplant with a soy dressing (served cold). The cucumbers were great, showing that well-picked cucumbers can be very flavorful and a touch sweet. The radishes were so small and sliced so thin as to be inconsequential to the flavors. The vinegar was bright and acidic without being vinegar-y. The tofu dumplings were the highlight--six large disc-shaped dumplings floating in broth flavored with bits of seaweed. Infused with the flavors of the O Chamé's ubiquitous fish broth, the tofu had a nice meaty texture with a clean, mild, seawater flavor. For those who malign O Chamé's portions, I question if they've ever ordered this dish--substantial and inexpensive. The fried eggplant was of a good quality, and a I didn't mind the that it was chilled, but I thought it was overdressed with the soy dressing. Cassie didn't mind as much.
Cassie ordered the udon with smoked trout, enoki mushrooms. and hiziki seaweed. Not sure if the trout is house-smoked, but it was great. Big chunks of fillet with a mild smokiness, not overly salted. O Chamé's fish broth is fantastic and just taste's "good for you." Enoki's were small and flavorless but the seaweed was bright and ocean-y.
I went with the soba with grilled Boston mackerel with mustard greens. This dish was even better than the smoked trout--the mackerel was grilled very nicely, skin on, and filleted and dropped into chunks into the broth. Oily and meaty, mackerel is in general one of my favorite fish and this was a perfectly prepared piece. The mustard greens were fresh and flavorful and great with that broth.
Both the soba and udon noodles were tender and tasted very very fresh and the mix of black and spicy ground pepper (and paprika?) added a great heat when added to the soup.
The noodle bowls seemed like excellent values too--while it's true you COULD get udon for half the price elsewhere, chances are the broth would be very salty and the ingredients would not be of comparable type or quality to that at O Chamé. The servings we both found to be just about right.
O Chamé's wine list is short, well-priced, with a nice selection of sakes and Japanese beer.
The one thing that sucked on the night that we visited was the service. It sucked. It sucked hard. I don't expect much other than promptness and attentiveness. Our server came to the table all of three times in the evening--to take our order, drop off our drinks, and to drop the check. I finished my glass of wine half-way through my soba and was neither asked if I would like another nor had my empty glass cleared. There was not a single check-in after food was dropped. I tend to give the benefit of the doubt a lot in terms of service, but the restaurant was small, the menu low-maintenance, and it wasn't terribly busy. We both felt ignored.
But with the great fresh food and reasonable prices, I'll be back--especially for lunch. I need to try some of the fish-oriented appetizers.
In closing, I'd just like to bitch in particular to those douche bags on citysearch who criticized O Chamé for not being "authentic" Japanese food. O Chamé makes no claims to being a Japanese restaurant--it fuses Japanese techniques with a mix of Asian and Californian ingredients to create California Cuisine. To complain that O Chamé isn't authentic Japanese food would be the same as bitching that Chez Panisse isn't authentic French food. Breadfruit and kumquats people. Breadfruit and kumquats.
O Chamé
Cuisine: Japanese-centered California Cuisine
Price range: Starters: $3.50-$10; Udon/Soba: $10.50-$12; Entrees: $18-$22
HFF's cost for two (three starters, two soups, one beer, one glass of wine, tax, tip): $68
Reservations: 510-841-8783
1830 Fourth Street
Berkeley, Ca 94710
Thursday, March 30, 2006
Thursday, March 23, 2006
Zuni Café - San Francisco, Ca
Why:
Chef Scott and I had attended the SF Symphony (some Russian--Mstislav Rastropovich--conducting very ponderous and stately renditions of Shostakovich's Festive Overture, Piano Concerto No. 1, and Symphony No. 5) and decided that, following the show, this would be a perfect time to finally hit up the SF California Cuisine institution that is Zuni.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott.
The Space:
A series of paradoxes. Cramped but spacious. Crowded but open. Meandering but homey. Owing to its location on a corner intersection on Market, entering Zuni is like entering a big slice of pie from the point. A big slice of pie with beautiful high ceilings. In the very front of the restaurant are a handful of tightly packed tables that are left available at all times for walk-ups. A long copper bar runs along the left side of the front of the restaurant (limited but well-thought out selection, no draft beer). On the right behind the host's station is a staircase leading to upstairs seating. We were lead past the bar, through the first dining area to the big dining space in the rear. We sat at a corner banquette, directly across from the famed wood-fired brick oven (and a stack of logs). Tables are stuck into Zuni's every corner, but always in a very thought out way with tables seemingly custom-built for the unusual nooks (including triangles and pentagons). It's definitely eclectic but executed beautifully.
The Wine:
Went with a 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé after the 2004 Sancerre we were eyeing proved unavailable. Citrus-y with a nice minerality. Served at a perfect temperature from the start.
First Course:
Opted for three appetizers, small plates, or whatever you want to call them to whet our appetites before the main course (having decided from the start to go with the chicken). First out of the chute was "Pepette's graisserons" which our server described as a sort of pâté made of pork and duck. We received six cubes of the graisserons, which essentially seemed to be a terrine of the meats and herbs, served cold. From how it was described, I was expecting something saltier and fattier than what we received--the pork and duck flavors were distinct and delicious. I would've liked some stronger flavor--either mixed in in the form of a sharp spice, or with a sauce--Scott suggested a horseradish or mustard sauce. More interesting than the graisserons was the side of winter vegetable slaw that came with the dish. Fresh shredded veggies dressed with a simple mayo, it was succinct and flavorful.
Next up was the Tuscan white bean and chard soup. As seems to be the theme of California Cuisine, this was direct, uninflected, and tasty. It consisted of a handful of big white beans and pieces of chard floating in a deep, flavorful chicken stock (or so we surmised). It was the best stock I've had. The beans lent a slight creaminess to the soup. Would've liked more chard.
Last up was our orange and grapefruit salad with green olives and fresh onions. This presented the only hiccup of the evening. It's not that this salad wasn't good--it was great and fresh with a surprising mix of flavors. The onions were sharp, crisp, and delicious. The problem was that in the process of coursing out our meal, we ended up getting the citrus with our chicken. This citrus would've been better enjoyed either first or with a substantial break between it and the chicken so it would serve as a palate cleanser (this, I think, was our server's intention). Regardless, the citrus salad became a tasty but forgotten sideshow to the main event when it arrived.
Entree:
First time at Zuni for dinner, have to try the roast chicken for two. Cooked in that brick oven for close to an hour (at who knows how high a temperature), the two or so pound chicken comes to the table cut into eighths (two legs, two wings, two thighs, two breasts) perched atop a mound of warm bread salad with roccola, currants, and pine nuts. The chicken was great--roasted beautifully with a crisp salty skin and and subtle herb flavors that permeated the meat throughout. A few parts were a little dry (unavoidable when roasting at such a high temperature), but for the most part the meat was nice, juicy, and pulled easily off the bone. The dark meat in particular was great. We both agreed that the thigh meat was the showcase--though I had a nice piece from the leg that was an orgasmic mix of salty skin and rich dark meat.
As great (and simple) as the chicken was, it was surpassed in greatness (and simplicity) by the generous serving of the warm bread salad. The bread is grilled and then torn into big chunks, tossed with roccola, pine nuts, and dried currants and then dressed with a warm balsamic vinaigrette. The acidity permeated the bread with a nice sharpness, the roccola was bright and pepperty, the pine nuts and currants were, well, pine nuts and currants. Meaning they were delicious. Bites that included all the components of the salad with a bite of chicken had a gestalt that was impossible to beat.
Dessert:
We went with the Gâteau Victoire, a flourless chocolate cake served with whipped cream. It was simple and bittersweet--bordering on bland--with a light airy texture. I would've liked a warm chocolate or fruit sauce accompanying it, the room temperature cake not being all that interesting by itself. Good but not great.
The double espresso I had was nice, slightly smoky, with a mild bitterness.
In Conclusion:
Zuni was great. It also illustrated how friendly, attentive (albeit idiocyncratic) service--we never had to ask for anything, silverware was refreshed, water refilled, wine attended, all without being overly intrusive--and a beautiful well-executed space can enhance the dining experience. What Zuni offered was California cuisine--beautiful ingredients impeccably prepared. There was nothing innovative, unusual, or big with spice or flavor beyond the elegant flavors of the ingredients themselves (not Bendean, for instance). The food at Zuni is something that the attentive and mildly talented home cook could easily replicate with patience and the right ingredients (and a 700 degree wood-fired oven in the case of the chicken)--but the home cook could not replicate the experience of eating at Zuni. This is what sets places like Zuni Café and Chez Panisse Café apart from the myriad California Cuisine pretenders--attnetion, care, and execution.
As a side note, Scott and I discussed our favorite meals since we started these dining excursions and we plunked Zuni in the Number Two spot after the joint 1a and 1b positions of Bendean and Chez Panisse Café (both incredible for very different reasons).
Zuni Café
Cuisine: Cal-Med
Entrée price range: $14-$28 (chicken for two--$39)
HFF's cost for two (three appetizers, chicken for two, one dessert, one bottle of wine, one espresso, tax, generous tip): $155
Reservations: 415-552-2522 or www.opentable.com
1658 Market St. (at Gough)
San Francisco, CA 94102
Chef Scott and I had attended the SF Symphony (some Russian--Mstislav Rastropovich--conducting very ponderous and stately renditions of Shostakovich's Festive Overture, Piano Concerto No. 1, and Symphony No. 5) and decided that, following the show, this would be a perfect time to finally hit up the SF California Cuisine institution that is Zuni.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott.
The Space:
A series of paradoxes. Cramped but spacious. Crowded but open. Meandering but homey. Owing to its location on a corner intersection on Market, entering Zuni is like entering a big slice of pie from the point. A big slice of pie with beautiful high ceilings. In the very front of the restaurant are a handful of tightly packed tables that are left available at all times for walk-ups. A long copper bar runs along the left side of the front of the restaurant (limited but well-thought out selection, no draft beer). On the right behind the host's station is a staircase leading to upstairs seating. We were lead past the bar, through the first dining area to the big dining space in the rear. We sat at a corner banquette, directly across from the famed wood-fired brick oven (and a stack of logs). Tables are stuck into Zuni's every corner, but always in a very thought out way with tables seemingly custom-built for the unusual nooks (including triangles and pentagons). It's definitely eclectic but executed beautifully.
The Wine:
Went with a 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé after the 2004 Sancerre we were eyeing proved unavailable. Citrus-y with a nice minerality. Served at a perfect temperature from the start.
First Course:
Opted for three appetizers, small plates, or whatever you want to call them to whet our appetites before the main course (having decided from the start to go with the chicken). First out of the chute was "Pepette's graisserons" which our server described as a sort of pâté made of pork and duck. We received six cubes of the graisserons, which essentially seemed to be a terrine of the meats and herbs, served cold. From how it was described, I was expecting something saltier and fattier than what we received--the pork and duck flavors were distinct and delicious. I would've liked some stronger flavor--either mixed in in the form of a sharp spice, or with a sauce--Scott suggested a horseradish or mustard sauce. More interesting than the graisserons was the side of winter vegetable slaw that came with the dish. Fresh shredded veggies dressed with a simple mayo, it was succinct and flavorful.
Next up was the Tuscan white bean and chard soup. As seems to be the theme of California Cuisine, this was direct, uninflected, and tasty. It consisted of a handful of big white beans and pieces of chard floating in a deep, flavorful chicken stock (or so we surmised). It was the best stock I've had. The beans lent a slight creaminess to the soup. Would've liked more chard.
Last up was our orange and grapefruit salad with green olives and fresh onions. This presented the only hiccup of the evening. It's not that this salad wasn't good--it was great and fresh with a surprising mix of flavors. The onions were sharp, crisp, and delicious. The problem was that in the process of coursing out our meal, we ended up getting the citrus with our chicken. This citrus would've been better enjoyed either first or with a substantial break between it and the chicken so it would serve as a palate cleanser (this, I think, was our server's intention). Regardless, the citrus salad became a tasty but forgotten sideshow to the main event when it arrived.
Entree:
First time at Zuni for dinner, have to try the roast chicken for two. Cooked in that brick oven for close to an hour (at who knows how high a temperature), the two or so pound chicken comes to the table cut into eighths (two legs, two wings, two thighs, two breasts) perched atop a mound of warm bread salad with roccola, currants, and pine nuts. The chicken was great--roasted beautifully with a crisp salty skin and and subtle herb flavors that permeated the meat throughout. A few parts were a little dry (unavoidable when roasting at such a high temperature), but for the most part the meat was nice, juicy, and pulled easily off the bone. The dark meat in particular was great. We both agreed that the thigh meat was the showcase--though I had a nice piece from the leg that was an orgasmic mix of salty skin and rich dark meat.
As great (and simple) as the chicken was, it was surpassed in greatness (and simplicity) by the generous serving of the warm bread salad. The bread is grilled and then torn into big chunks, tossed with roccola, pine nuts, and dried currants and then dressed with a warm balsamic vinaigrette. The acidity permeated the bread with a nice sharpness, the roccola was bright and pepperty, the pine nuts and currants were, well, pine nuts and currants. Meaning they were delicious. Bites that included all the components of the salad with a bite of chicken had a gestalt that was impossible to beat.
Dessert:
We went with the Gâteau Victoire, a flourless chocolate cake served with whipped cream. It was simple and bittersweet--bordering on bland--with a light airy texture. I would've liked a warm chocolate or fruit sauce accompanying it, the room temperature cake not being all that interesting by itself. Good but not great.
The double espresso I had was nice, slightly smoky, with a mild bitterness.
In Conclusion:
Zuni was great. It also illustrated how friendly, attentive (albeit idiocyncratic) service--we never had to ask for anything, silverware was refreshed, water refilled, wine attended, all without being overly intrusive--and a beautiful well-executed space can enhance the dining experience. What Zuni offered was California cuisine--beautiful ingredients impeccably prepared. There was nothing innovative, unusual, or big with spice or flavor beyond the elegant flavors of the ingredients themselves (not Bendean, for instance). The food at Zuni is something that the attentive and mildly talented home cook could easily replicate with patience and the right ingredients (and a 700 degree wood-fired oven in the case of the chicken)--but the home cook could not replicate the experience of eating at Zuni. This is what sets places like Zuni Café and Chez Panisse Café apart from the myriad California Cuisine pretenders--attnetion, care, and execution.
As a side note, Scott and I discussed our favorite meals since we started these dining excursions and we plunked Zuni in the Number Two spot after the joint 1a and 1b positions of Bendean and Chez Panisse Café (both incredible for very different reasons).
Zuni Café
Cuisine: Cal-Med
Entrée price range: $14-$28 (chicken for two--$39)
HFF's cost for two (three appetizers, chicken for two, one dessert, one bottle of wine, one espresso, tax, generous tip): $155
Reservations: 415-552-2522 or www.opentable.com
1658 Market St. (at Gough)
San Francisco, CA 94102
Friday, March 10, 2006
HFF Quickie: À Côté - Oakland, Ca
À Côté has been on my list of "places to try" for a while now--from those who've been reviews have always been mixed. It's also one of the restaurants that seems to have the "pricey" or "overpriced" tag slapped on it as if it were an ancient Greek epithet. Grey-Eyed Oliveto cockslapped Overpriced À Côté last Tuesday would be how Homer would've written it.
Point is, Cesar was busy, I was hungry, and À Côté serves until 11PM.
Went with my friend Serra and we were both impressed with the space--stylish yet homey with beautiful thick wooden tables, warm dark accents, nice big bar, and great lighting. There was some weird optical illusion working as to how the various sections of the restaurant were terraced, making the bartenders appear about eight-feet tall from our vantage in the pit area near the front of the restaurant. The nearly-full restaurant was at an easily manageable conversation volume.
We opted for a half-order of pomme frites, the prawn and serrano ham croquettes, the duck confit flatbread and a side of de ciccio broccoli, and the Garratxa cheese. The frites were good but unremarkable--fresh thin fries with an excellent garlicky (but not sickeningly so) aioli. It was an enormous portion for a half-order. Next to arrive were the croquettes--four dolma-sized cylinders dusted in pankow. These were incredibly rich--just made of prawn pieces, ham, and bechamel. The bites consisting of prawn and ham were great, but the bechamel was simply overwhelming. I would've preferred a drier croquette with more textural substance. Or perhaps some sort of citrus, herb and oil-based dipping sauce might've balanced the richness of the croquettes themselves.
The duck confit flatbread was ridiculous. Essentially a sauceless pizza, as opposed to more Mediterranean-style flatbreads you find and other restaurants, the warm slightly sweet crust was loaded with incredibly flavorful duck. The mild fontina cheese let the gamey richness of the duck--some of the most flavorful duck I've ever had--showcase. There wasn't enough of the pink lady apples (we barely noticed they were there), which was too bad because it was a great complimenting flavor in the one or two bites where it was detected.
The side of "de ciccio broccoli with crispy shallots" should've been listed as "cauliflower with de ciccio broccoli and crispy shallot." Cauliflower was easily two-thirds of the volume of the dish with maybe three or (at most four) thin pieces of de ciccio broccoli. In the bites that I had I detected crispy shallot once--Serra didn't taste any at all. Everything was cooked very nicely and was very fresh and flavorful, but if I'm ordering something listed as de ciccio broccoli I'd expect that to be the primary ingredient.
And then there was the cheese plate. This is what a cheese plate should be. Generous piles of toasted almonds, (not very) candied walnuts, poached figs, walnut levain toast, and a few pieces of fresh sweet apple accompanied a perfect sized portion of cheese served on a thick slab of tile. The Garratxa, a "firm" ash-rind goat cheese, was nice and goaty, creamier than I expected, and not too salty. A sliver of cheese, a slice of apple, a fig and an almond in one bite was absolutely heaven.
The wines that I had--a mineraly 2003 Hungarian Furmint from Bodegas Oremus in Tokay-Hegyalja was very nice, a touch oaky, and complex. The dry 2002 Slovenian Ribolla Gialla from Movia in Girska Brda was very light to the point of being watery. Great globe-spanning wine list with 38 wines by glass.
The food was all pretty good, with only the flatbread being a standout. I found the prices just barely on the higher end of the comparable small-plates restaurants out there, but the portions are also a bit larger than at Fonda or Cesar. In fact I would question even calling what À Côté serves as small-plates in the traditional tapas sense--a flatbread and a side of veggies could easily make a meal for one.
With a great space, good hours, a full bar, and that fucking ridiculous cheese plate, I'll be back at least once more, even if it didn't come close to unseating Cesar as my small-plates favorite.
À Côté
Cuisine: French & Spanish small-plates
Price range: $4-$15
HFF's cost for two (three small plates, one side, one cheese, three glasses of wine, tax, and generous tip): $85
Reservations: 510-655-6469 or www.opentable.com (very limited early and late time slots--mostly walk-ups).
5478 College Ave.
Oakland, Ca 94618
www.acoterestaurant.com
Point is, Cesar was busy, I was hungry, and À Côté serves until 11PM.
Went with my friend Serra and we were both impressed with the space--stylish yet homey with beautiful thick wooden tables, warm dark accents, nice big bar, and great lighting. There was some weird optical illusion working as to how the various sections of the restaurant were terraced, making the bartenders appear about eight-feet tall from our vantage in the pit area near the front of the restaurant. The nearly-full restaurant was at an easily manageable conversation volume.
We opted for a half-order of pomme frites, the prawn and serrano ham croquettes, the duck confit flatbread and a side of de ciccio broccoli, and the Garratxa cheese. The frites were good but unremarkable--fresh thin fries with an excellent garlicky (but not sickeningly so) aioli. It was an enormous portion for a half-order. Next to arrive were the croquettes--four dolma-sized cylinders dusted in pankow. These were incredibly rich--just made of prawn pieces, ham, and bechamel. The bites consisting of prawn and ham were great, but the bechamel was simply overwhelming. I would've preferred a drier croquette with more textural substance. Or perhaps some sort of citrus, herb and oil-based dipping sauce might've balanced the richness of the croquettes themselves.
The duck confit flatbread was ridiculous. Essentially a sauceless pizza, as opposed to more Mediterranean-style flatbreads you find and other restaurants, the warm slightly sweet crust was loaded with incredibly flavorful duck. The mild fontina cheese let the gamey richness of the duck--some of the most flavorful duck I've ever had--showcase. There wasn't enough of the pink lady apples (we barely noticed they were there), which was too bad because it was a great complimenting flavor in the one or two bites where it was detected.
The side of "de ciccio broccoli with crispy shallots" should've been listed as "cauliflower with de ciccio broccoli and crispy shallot." Cauliflower was easily two-thirds of the volume of the dish with maybe three or (at most four) thin pieces of de ciccio broccoli. In the bites that I had I detected crispy shallot once--Serra didn't taste any at all. Everything was cooked very nicely and was very fresh and flavorful, but if I'm ordering something listed as de ciccio broccoli I'd expect that to be the primary ingredient.
And then there was the cheese plate. This is what a cheese plate should be. Generous piles of toasted almonds, (not very) candied walnuts, poached figs, walnut levain toast, and a few pieces of fresh sweet apple accompanied a perfect sized portion of cheese served on a thick slab of tile. The Garratxa, a "firm" ash-rind goat cheese, was nice and goaty, creamier than I expected, and not too salty. A sliver of cheese, a slice of apple, a fig and an almond in one bite was absolutely heaven.
The wines that I had--a mineraly 2003 Hungarian Furmint from Bodegas Oremus in Tokay-Hegyalja was very nice, a touch oaky, and complex. The dry 2002 Slovenian Ribolla Gialla from Movia in Girska Brda was very light to the point of being watery. Great globe-spanning wine list with 38 wines by glass.
The food was all pretty good, with only the flatbread being a standout. I found the prices just barely on the higher end of the comparable small-plates restaurants out there, but the portions are also a bit larger than at Fonda or Cesar. In fact I would question even calling what À Côté serves as small-plates in the traditional tapas sense--a flatbread and a side of veggies could easily make a meal for one.
With a great space, good hours, a full bar, and that fucking ridiculous cheese plate, I'll be back at least once more, even if it didn't come close to unseating Cesar as my small-plates favorite.
À Côté
Cuisine: French & Spanish small-plates
Price range: $4-$15
HFF's cost for two (three small plates, one side, one cheese, three glasses of wine, tax, and generous tip): $85
Reservations: 510-655-6469 or www.opentable.com (very limited early and late time slots--mostly walk-ups).
5478 College Ave.
Oakland, Ca 94618
www.acoterestaurant.com
Wednesday, March 08, 2006
Baraka - San Francisco, Ca
Why:
Honestly? I was leaving campus at SFSU at right around 5PM, hungry, and rather than deal with annoying traffic decided to grab an early dinner at one of several Potrero Hill eateries that I'd been meaning to try for a while. I opted for Baraka because I'm a whore for Mediterranean food (the ownership's other Potrero Hill options--Chez Maman and Chez Papa are decidedly and firmly meat-heavy french cuisine and Aperto is, well, Italian and nobody likes Italian food).
Who:
Just me.
The Space:
Small (5o seats), dark, and richly accented. Beautiful candles and fixtures, high copper bar in the corner. All the tables are topped with copper. Dark red is the principle color theme. Very stylish but a little bit spooky, I think. The barstools are improbably high and very very heavy, but comfortable once you catapult into them.
The Wine:
I didn't take a close look at the wine list, option for the Kronenbourg 1664 lager from their drafts. No wine list available online for evaluation.
First Course:
I went with the soup of the day (carrot ginger) and an order of the "Spanish Fries with Harissa aioli." These were both mild disappointments. The soup had clear ginger and carrot flavors, but it lacked a textural depth (rather brothy) and a creaminess that I associate with carrots--I mean the natural creaminess of a puree-heavy carrot dish (like carrot juice), not just from the addition of cream (which this vegan soup did not have). I'm also a sucker for ginger and really like to punched in the face with it in dishes.
When the bartender explained the "Spanish Fries" to me, I was excited since thicker wedge-cut potatoes are my favorite sort of fry and I love harissa in general. The potatoes themselves were excellent (I believe they were Yukon Golds) but they were underseasoned and the "harissa aioli" had barely a whisper of this usually fiery Mediterranean hot sauce (compare to the hot sauce at Sophia Cafe in Albany, which I think is the best there is). I found it to be rather bland (though a generous portion for $4.50).
Entree:
I love monkfish and it's relatively hard to find, so I ordered the prosciutto-wrapped monkfish with spinach, leak, and golden raisins, and a sherry beurre blanc. In hindsight this might've been a bad choice as I'm not the biggest fan of French cuisine outside of that from Provence and this might've been more French-y then I was looking for. The monkfish was nice and prepared well (though almost to the point of being overdone) with the prosciutto contrasting nicely with the delicate fish. It would've enjoyed an even stronger pork contrast from pancetta or even smoked bacon.
The vegetables were presented as a sort of succotash--the raisins were nice and plump but the leeks and the spinach were cooked to an almost flavorless mush. What I found the most distracting was the beurre blanc--it had the taste of cheap butter flavoring (like you'd find on movie theatre popcorn) and its richness I thought was unneccessary when there already was porky richness wrapped around the monkfish. Maybe a more vinegar-heavy sauce? Any suggestions, Scott?
Dessert:
With Mediterranean cuisine's general penchant for sweetness and my own tastes toward bittersweet chocolate I probably shouldn't've ordered the chocolate roulade with hazelnut crisps. But I did, because I hate myself. Actually, this was a pretty nice dish--with alternating layers of semisweet and milk chocolate cream and impossibly thin layers of cake rolled into a perfect swirl and the scattering of hazelnut crisps tasted exactly like Ferrero Rocher (I'm talking EXACTLY). It was just way too sweet for my tastebuds--sickeningly sweet, actually. It was also accompanied with a buttery sauce that had that same unwelcome buttered popcorn Jelly Belly taste. It was fucking beautiful and I don't doubt that someone who likes milk chocolate would find it quite delicious.
I did, however, have an excellent espresso. Aromatic, hints of cocoa, and not in the least bit sour. I also received a small taste of their muscat with my dessert that was delicious--not overly sweet with a distinctive apricot taste (probably a great match with their rice pudding or date desserts).
In Conclusion:
So this is a pretty mixed review. Nothing really clicked 100% for me in terms of either concept or execution on the food that I ordered and I'm usually a big Mediterranean fan. Perhaps the heavy French influence on the menu was its downfall for me. Still, this is a pretty highly regarded restaurant--if I do return I'll probably focus on ordering multiple tastes from their more eclectic small plates menu (which seems to have more straight-forward Mediterranean fare) and avoid the heavy-handed entrees. Service was friendly and attentive without being intrusive.
As a side note (not that I would've ordered it), but they offer a $29.95 early bird prix-fixe from 5:30-6:30PM on Sunday-Thursday, but I was never offered that menu (I ate right at 5:30).
Baraka
Cuisine: (Heavily) French-Influenced Mediterranean
Entree price range: $16-$22 (small plates and sides $3-$16)
HFF's cost for one (one small plate, one entree, one side, one dessert, one beer, one espresso, tax, generous tip): $57
Reservations: 415-255-0387 or www.opentable.com
288 Connecticut St. (at 18th St.)
San Francisco, Ca 94107
www.barakasf.net
Honestly? I was leaving campus at SFSU at right around 5PM, hungry, and rather than deal with annoying traffic decided to grab an early dinner at one of several Potrero Hill eateries that I'd been meaning to try for a while. I opted for Baraka because I'm a whore for Mediterranean food (the ownership's other Potrero Hill options--Chez Maman and Chez Papa are decidedly and firmly meat-heavy french cuisine and Aperto is, well, Italian and nobody likes Italian food).
Who:
Just me.
The Space:
Small (5o seats), dark, and richly accented. Beautiful candles and fixtures, high copper bar in the corner. All the tables are topped with copper. Dark red is the principle color theme. Very stylish but a little bit spooky, I think. The barstools are improbably high and very very heavy, but comfortable once you catapult into them.
The Wine:
I didn't take a close look at the wine list, option for the Kronenbourg 1664 lager from their drafts. No wine list available online for evaluation.
First Course:
I went with the soup of the day (carrot ginger) and an order of the "Spanish Fries with Harissa aioli." These were both mild disappointments. The soup had clear ginger and carrot flavors, but it lacked a textural depth (rather brothy) and a creaminess that I associate with carrots--I mean the natural creaminess of a puree-heavy carrot dish (like carrot juice), not just from the addition of cream (which this vegan soup did not have). I'm also a sucker for ginger and really like to punched in the face with it in dishes.
When the bartender explained the "Spanish Fries" to me, I was excited since thicker wedge-cut potatoes are my favorite sort of fry and I love harissa in general. The potatoes themselves were excellent (I believe they were Yukon Golds) but they were underseasoned and the "harissa aioli" had barely a whisper of this usually fiery Mediterranean hot sauce (compare to the hot sauce at Sophia Cafe in Albany, which I think is the best there is). I found it to be rather bland (though a generous portion for $4.50).
Entree:
I love monkfish and it's relatively hard to find, so I ordered the prosciutto-wrapped monkfish with spinach, leak, and golden raisins, and a sherry beurre blanc. In hindsight this might've been a bad choice as I'm not the biggest fan of French cuisine outside of that from Provence and this might've been more French-y then I was looking for. The monkfish was nice and prepared well (though almost to the point of being overdone) with the prosciutto contrasting nicely with the delicate fish. It would've enjoyed an even stronger pork contrast from pancetta or even smoked bacon.
The vegetables were presented as a sort of succotash--the raisins were nice and plump but the leeks and the spinach were cooked to an almost flavorless mush. What I found the most distracting was the beurre blanc--it had the taste of cheap butter flavoring (like you'd find on movie theatre popcorn) and its richness I thought was unneccessary when there already was porky richness wrapped around the monkfish. Maybe a more vinegar-heavy sauce? Any suggestions, Scott?
Dessert:
With Mediterranean cuisine's general penchant for sweetness and my own tastes toward bittersweet chocolate I probably shouldn't've ordered the chocolate roulade with hazelnut crisps. But I did, because I hate myself. Actually, this was a pretty nice dish--with alternating layers of semisweet and milk chocolate cream and impossibly thin layers of cake rolled into a perfect swirl and the scattering of hazelnut crisps tasted exactly like Ferrero Rocher (I'm talking EXACTLY). It was just way too sweet for my tastebuds--sickeningly sweet, actually. It was also accompanied with a buttery sauce that had that same unwelcome buttered popcorn Jelly Belly taste. It was fucking beautiful and I don't doubt that someone who likes milk chocolate would find it quite delicious.
I did, however, have an excellent espresso. Aromatic, hints of cocoa, and not in the least bit sour. I also received a small taste of their muscat with my dessert that was delicious--not overly sweet with a distinctive apricot taste (probably a great match with their rice pudding or date desserts).
In Conclusion:
So this is a pretty mixed review. Nothing really clicked 100% for me in terms of either concept or execution on the food that I ordered and I'm usually a big Mediterranean fan. Perhaps the heavy French influence on the menu was its downfall for me. Still, this is a pretty highly regarded restaurant--if I do return I'll probably focus on ordering multiple tastes from their more eclectic small plates menu (which seems to have more straight-forward Mediterranean fare) and avoid the heavy-handed entrees. Service was friendly and attentive without being intrusive.
As a side note (not that I would've ordered it), but they offer a $29.95 early bird prix-fixe from 5:30-6:30PM on Sunday-Thursday, but I was never offered that menu (I ate right at 5:30).
Baraka
Cuisine: (Heavily) French-Influenced Mediterranean
Entree price range: $16-$22 (small plates and sides $3-$16)
HFF's cost for one (one small plate, one entree, one side, one dessert, one beer, one espresso, tax, generous tip): $57
Reservations: 415-255-0387 or www.opentable.com
288 Connecticut St. (at 18th St.)
San Francisco, Ca 94107
www.barakasf.net
Sunday, March 05, 2006
HFF Quickie: Gregoire - Berkeley, Ca
Not that Gregoire needs more advertisement, but I felt the need to post about my most recent meal there.
I love Gregoire for lunch (I've yet to order a dinner item). Their sandwiches have been fresh, rich, interesting, and well-priced. And those goddamn potato puffs rock. Tell me a better way to spend $4.75 on food in the east bay and I'll be there in minutes.
That being said, with my most recent meal, I was actually mildly disappointed with Gregoire for the very first time.
An item on their March menu had been in my mind since I first read it--a chilled Maine cod, boquerones, and aioli sandwich on foccacia. Let it be known that those are probably my three favorite things in the world (more favorite than oxygen or sex with hobos, even). However, instead of an oily-rich experience of goodness puncuated by briny bites of boquerones, I instead got a mild fishy sandwich that was somehow managed to be a little bit dry. Don't get me worng--the flavors were great and the ingredients top notch, but it lacked the unabashed richness of previous sandwiches--particularly a rock-shrimp, herb, and tomato sandwich that i had that was absolutely stunning. Basically, this was a sandwich that I could've made better at home without much difficulty in finding the ingredients .
As a side I opted out of the potato puffs for the very first time and instead got the pesto potato gratin. It's a generous serving, but the dish just lacked any real character--the potatoes were well-cooked and soft and it was sufficiently creamy, but it lacked any real flavor. The pesto was very mild with just a mild hint of basil and olive oil and (even for my sodium-sensitive tongue) I thought that it could've used a decent amount more salt.
So there you have it. Gregoire is flawed. Oh well. The end.
Gregoire
Cuisine: Cal-French Take-Out
Entree price range (lunch): $7-$10
HFF's cost for one (sandwich, side, beverage, tax): $15
Reservations: n/a
www.gregoirerestaurant.com
Order by phone: 510-883-1893
2109 Cedar St.
Berkeley, CA 94704
(also at 4001B Piedmont Ave in Oakland)
www.gregoirerestaurant.com
I love Gregoire for lunch (I've yet to order a dinner item). Their sandwiches have been fresh, rich, interesting, and well-priced. And those goddamn potato puffs rock. Tell me a better way to spend $4.75 on food in the east bay and I'll be there in minutes.
That being said, with my most recent meal, I was actually mildly disappointed with Gregoire for the very first time.
An item on their March menu had been in my mind since I first read it--a chilled Maine cod, boquerones, and aioli sandwich on foccacia. Let it be known that those are probably my three favorite things in the world (more favorite than oxygen or sex with hobos, even). However, instead of an oily-rich experience of goodness puncuated by briny bites of boquerones, I instead got a mild fishy sandwich that was somehow managed to be a little bit dry. Don't get me worng--the flavors were great and the ingredients top notch, but it lacked the unabashed richness of previous sandwiches--particularly a rock-shrimp, herb, and tomato sandwich that i had that was absolutely stunning. Basically, this was a sandwich that I could've made better at home without much difficulty in finding the ingredients .
As a side I opted out of the potato puffs for the very first time and instead got the pesto potato gratin. It's a generous serving, but the dish just lacked any real character--the potatoes were well-cooked and soft and it was sufficiently creamy, but it lacked any real flavor. The pesto was very mild with just a mild hint of basil and olive oil and (even for my sodium-sensitive tongue) I thought that it could've used a decent amount more salt.
So there you have it. Gregoire is flawed. Oh well. The end.
Gregoire
Cuisine: Cal-French Take-Out
Entree price range (lunch): $7-$10
HFF's cost for one (sandwich, side, beverage, tax): $15
Reservations: n/a
www.gregoirerestaurant.com
Order by phone: 510-883-1893
2109 Cedar St.
Berkeley, CA 94704
(also at 4001B Piedmont Ave in Oakland)
www.gregoirerestaurant.com
Wine: 2003 Blanco Nieva Verdejo
So this is a bad pick to review since it represents the last of the 2003 vintage. Kevin at The Spanish Table said that the 2004 verdejos should be available in about six weeks.
For you zero people (except you, Anthony) who are regular readers of this blog, you know that I'm a big fan of Spanish whites. Most major spanish varietals--albarino, verdejo, txakoli, et al--have a great balance of citrus, acid, minerality, and fruit to make them wonderful drinking wines and also pair excellently with fresh, light to medium bodied food (perfect for "California Cuisine").
This particular verdejo comes not from the Rueda municipality of Spain (well-known for its verdejo wines), but rather from Nieva in the Segovia province--a region, like Rueda, the produces primarily verdejo and sauvignon blanc grapes.
The wine has distinct musty notes on the nose very similar to a muscadet. Across the tongue, the wine has a pronounced citrus quality, quite dry, with a nice tartness that got my salivary glands going. It's this middle range that makes Spanish white varietals so perfect for food--and it's a characteristic that seems to be found across the board with well-crafted Spanish whites. The finish of the wine is clean and very acidic although without any of the minerality that I've found in verdejos from Rueda.
This is a a nice, solid wine at a great price ($9.99 on sale [from $12.99]--the 2004 vintage should price in at $15-$16) that drinks alone very nicely and is a solid, well-rounded wine for drinking with appetizers, salads, small plates, and spicy entrees. Definitely not the most complex verdejo out there, but it's tasty.
Country: Spain (Nieva, Segovia)
Varietal/Blend: 100% verdejo
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $9.99 (end of vintage sale)
Purchased: The Spanish Table, San Pablo Ave.
For you zero people (except you, Anthony) who are regular readers of this blog, you know that I'm a big fan of Spanish whites. Most major spanish varietals--albarino, verdejo, txakoli, et al--have a great balance of citrus, acid, minerality, and fruit to make them wonderful drinking wines and also pair excellently with fresh, light to medium bodied food (perfect for "California Cuisine").
This particular verdejo comes not from the Rueda municipality of Spain (well-known for its verdejo wines), but rather from Nieva in the Segovia province--a region, like Rueda, the produces primarily verdejo and sauvignon blanc grapes.
The wine has distinct musty notes on the nose very similar to a muscadet. Across the tongue, the wine has a pronounced citrus quality, quite dry, with a nice tartness that got my salivary glands going. It's this middle range that makes Spanish white varietals so perfect for food--and it's a characteristic that seems to be found across the board with well-crafted Spanish whites. The finish of the wine is clean and very acidic although without any of the minerality that I've found in verdejos from Rueda.
This is a a nice, solid wine at a great price ($9.99 on sale [from $12.99]--the 2004 vintage should price in at $15-$16) that drinks alone very nicely and is a solid, well-rounded wine for drinking with appetizers, salads, small plates, and spicy entrees. Definitely not the most complex verdejo out there, but it's tasty.
Country: Spain (Nieva, Segovia)
Varietal/Blend: 100% verdejo
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $9.99 (end of vintage sale)
Purchased: The Spanish Table, San Pablo Ave.
Friday, March 03, 2006
Cheese: Cacio di Bosco al Tartufo
Here's something new for HFF, cheese reviews.
First, let me say that I enjoy cheese quite a bit, that being said I don't really "get" cheese. Then again, it could be said that I don't really "get" wine either. What I mean by that is I love the range of flavors, textures, and sensations that both good cheese and good wine offer, but I don't experience anything transcendent or orgasmic in the process of such enjoyment. The single food/drink items that have moved me anything close a transcendent culinary experience are: some really good dark chocolates, Laphroaig Cask Strength scotch, and Cesar's orange bread pudding with caramel sauce.
BUT, cheese is still good and worth spending money on. So, on with the cheese.
I was at A.G. Ferrari to purchase some pasta and decided to get an inexpensive pecorino or asiago for grating. I found a nice pecorino and figured I'd head out, but the tattooed gentleman behind the counter suggested I try a cheese that they were offering. After tasting the Cacio di Bosco al Tartufo--described as "basically pecorino with white truffles"--I was hooked. It definitely has pecorino's characteristic saltiness, there is also a nice creaminess that I was surprised to get from such a hard cheese. The distinctive feature of this cheese however is the white truffle flavor. This is not just a "truffled" dish or a cheese imbued with a whiff of truffle oil. This cheese tastes like motherfucking truffles. I'm by no means a fan of truffles, but I found the flavor of this cheese incredible. It's only downside is the cheesy-truffle aftertaste that lingers for a while and will color anything you eat or drink for the next hour or so.
I only ate the cheese out of hand (lightly chilled and at room temperatre), but it would also go well with some fresh fruit, candied nuts, or honey to temper the strong saltiness of the cheese itself. It would accompany pasta well but that could be construed as a waste of a not inexpensive cheese. Whatever you do with your money is your business.
Country: Italy
Milk: 100% Sheep
Firmness: Hard
Price: $27.99/lb
Purchased: A.G. Ferrari Foods, Piedmont Ave.
First, let me say that I enjoy cheese quite a bit, that being said I don't really "get" cheese. Then again, it could be said that I don't really "get" wine either. What I mean by that is I love the range of flavors, textures, and sensations that both good cheese and good wine offer, but I don't experience anything transcendent or orgasmic in the process of such enjoyment. The single food/drink items that have moved me anything close a transcendent culinary experience are: some really good dark chocolates, Laphroaig Cask Strength scotch, and Cesar's orange bread pudding with caramel sauce.
BUT, cheese is still good and worth spending money on. So, on with the cheese.
I was at A.G. Ferrari to purchase some pasta and decided to get an inexpensive pecorino or asiago for grating. I found a nice pecorino and figured I'd head out, but the tattooed gentleman behind the counter suggested I try a cheese that they were offering. After tasting the Cacio di Bosco al Tartufo--described as "basically pecorino with white truffles"--I was hooked. It definitely has pecorino's characteristic saltiness, there is also a nice creaminess that I was surprised to get from such a hard cheese. The distinctive feature of this cheese however is the white truffle flavor. This is not just a "truffled" dish or a cheese imbued with a whiff of truffle oil. This cheese tastes like motherfucking truffles. I'm by no means a fan of truffles, but I found the flavor of this cheese incredible. It's only downside is the cheesy-truffle aftertaste that lingers for a while and will color anything you eat or drink for the next hour or so.
I only ate the cheese out of hand (lightly chilled and at room temperatre), but it would also go well with some fresh fruit, candied nuts, or honey to temper the strong saltiness of the cheese itself. It would accompany pasta well but that could be construed as a waste of a not inexpensive cheese. Whatever you do with your money is your business.
Country: Italy
Milk: 100% Sheep
Firmness: Hard
Price: $27.99/lb
Purchased: A.G. Ferrari Foods, Piedmont Ave.
Wednesday, March 01, 2006
HFF Quickie: Squat & Gobble
This chain of suggestively named creperies in the city seems to be ever growing, with locations in West Portal, the Castro, and two in the Haight (and one coming to the Marina soon). I'll admit that I'm a fan of a similar establishment, Crepevine over in Rockridge, and I think it offers a significantly better quality product at similar prices--but Squat & Gobble just seems to be right where I am when I'm looking for food (in this case, wanting food and a draft beer with the wait too long at Magnolia).
Squat & Gobble offers a wide selection of sandwiches, burgers, salads, omelettes, other breakfast fare, and (naturally) sweet & savory crepes. The first (and most striking thing) is that, despite it being a "chain" and in the Haight, they manage to keep the place pretty damn clean. None of the crepe options jump out you the way Crepevine's do--and some seemed rich (even for crepes)--but they all sound good. Feeling like a pussy, I ordered the tofu veggie crepe with sauteed peanut sauce, opted for the side salad, and, to restore my manhood, a generous pint of Speakeasy's Prohibition Pale Ale.
The draft beer really is a major draw of all these establishments--as it's usually rather inexpensive (2.75 for 16oz. at Crepevine, 3.50 for 20 oz. at Squat & Gobble) and it usually is exactly what you're looking for. When I get late night food I almost always just as much want a draft beer as I want the food.
So I'm not really talking about the food that much because, well, it was unmemorable. The tofu was good but rather soft (I've had smoked or at least extra firm tofu in similar crepes before) and the other veggies (an Asian-esque assortment of broccoli, peppers, and cabbage) were cooked until very soft, giving the crepe an overall uniform mushy texture. Not terribly exciting. The "peanut sauce" it was sauteed in was unlike any peanut sauce I've had--it tasted mostly like a sweet & sour sauce with just a hint of peanut. That was the biggest disappointment after expecting a more traditional, slightly spicy Thai-style peanut sauce. The crepe did come with a large mixed green salad (a good European-style mix with frisee, arugula, etc) with a decent dressing.
But at the end of the night it was fresh, filling, and diverse food. And a beer. For just $12.
Get the info on the various locations at: www.squatandgobble.com.
Squat & Gobble offers a wide selection of sandwiches, burgers, salads, omelettes, other breakfast fare, and (naturally) sweet & savory crepes. The first (and most striking thing) is that, despite it being a "chain" and in the Haight, they manage to keep the place pretty damn clean. None of the crepe options jump out you the way Crepevine's do--and some seemed rich (even for crepes)--but they all sound good. Feeling like a pussy, I ordered the tofu veggie crepe with sauteed peanut sauce, opted for the side salad, and, to restore my manhood, a generous pint of Speakeasy's Prohibition Pale Ale.
The draft beer really is a major draw of all these establishments--as it's usually rather inexpensive (2.75 for 16oz. at Crepevine, 3.50 for 20 oz. at Squat & Gobble) and it usually is exactly what you're looking for. When I get late night food I almost always just as much want a draft beer as I want the food.
So I'm not really talking about the food that much because, well, it was unmemorable. The tofu was good but rather soft (I've had smoked or at least extra firm tofu in similar crepes before) and the other veggies (an Asian-esque assortment of broccoli, peppers, and cabbage) were cooked until very soft, giving the crepe an overall uniform mushy texture. Not terribly exciting. The "peanut sauce" it was sauteed in was unlike any peanut sauce I've had--it tasted mostly like a sweet & sour sauce with just a hint of peanut. That was the biggest disappointment after expecting a more traditional, slightly spicy Thai-style peanut sauce. The crepe did come with a large mixed green salad (a good European-style mix with frisee, arugula, etc) with a decent dressing.
But at the end of the night it was fresh, filling, and diverse food. And a beer. For just $12.
Get the info on the various locations at: www.squatandgobble.com.
Friday, February 17, 2006
Return Visit: Maverick
Though it's definitely inconsistent, I've become a fan of Maverick for the same reasons that I'm now a fan of Bendean--it's a restaurant that takes risks, has a constantly evolving menu, and has a consistent theme and focus.
So I decided to go there for Valentine's Day (changed to V-Day Eve because I had to work on Valentine's Day). Going on a Monday we were able to take advantage of Maverick's Monday night promotion: half-off any bottle of wine. That promo alone seemed to pack the place on a Monday night.
Our meal, I would say, was a step up from when I dined last. We got the crab fluffs which are balls of flavorful lump blue crab meat (my favorite crab) deep fried with a crispy exterior and impossibly light, moist, and fluffy interior. The three fluffs are served on a bed of frisee with three small dollops of strong, thick housemade tartare sauce. The only distraction were a few halved cherry tomatoes that were decent given the season but what tomatoes should be.
Second starter was the "Maverick Citrus Salad." This iteration featured blood oranges, tangerines, and watercress with a meyer lemon vinaigrette. The watercress was deliciously peppery, the citrus not overly sweet (almost too tart in spots), offset by the sparse, sweet vinaigrette. Would've liked a touch more even watercress-to-citrus ratio.
Remembering my enjoyment of the steelhead last time, I tried Maverick's fish dish again: pan-roasted monkfish served over a "stew" of steamed potatoes, haricots verts, and chorizo. The piece of fish was absolutely incredible--firm fleshed but delicate with wonderful subtle flavors. The potatoes were smooth and creamy and the chorizo was lent a nice heat to the stew and contrasted nicely with the mild (but a touch lobster-y) fish. The green beans were nicely done too, though they were superfluous (to the point of incongruity) to the dish.
Charlie ordered the Spring Risotto--this one featuring jumbo asparagus, creme fraiche, and meyer lemon confit. The risotto was thick and creamy, the asparagus tender and bright. While the tartness of the lemon was welcome, the nature of the confit left each bite with a sickly sweet aftertaste that was unusual and that we both found unenjoyable--or at least distracting.
I also ordered a side dish of creamed spinach. This was also a mild disappointment--it being more appropriately sauteed leaves of spinach in a rich creamy soup. It was all quite tasty, but it wasn't the balanced mix of chopped spinach, butter, cream, salt, and pepper that I've come to love about creamed spinach. Nevertheless, a generous portion for $4.
We steered clear of the "hot fudge brownie sundae" and opted for the roasted pear bread pudding with caramel sauce. This was a home run. Pieces of roasted bosc pears in a moist and gooey bread pudding with a rich burnt caramel sauce. Served warm, it was one of the best bread puddings I've had that I didn't make.
We also enjoyed a very nice 2004 Albarino (one of the few non-American wines on the list) the worked with our eclectic mix of flavors.
A few final notes: I finally understood what reviewers had meant by the volume in Maverick reaching ridiculous levels. This evening seemed to be a "girls' night out" for a few parties in the tiny dining room and, no doubt fueled by the half-price wine, what should have been the dull roar of conversation turned into a torrent of shrieks and shouts from drunken investment bankers and non-profit administrators. I eat (and work) at loud restaurants all the time and this was the first time I really had to uncomfortably raise my voice to be heard when dining with just one other person. Something else I noticed was that in the short time since I last dined there, the staff was no longer wearing the TGIFriday's-esque polo shirts and were back to being casually dressed in all black.
So I've had three great dinners at Maverick, despite the occasional miss. I strongly urge you to give Maverick a try for an adventurous dinner out.
And yes, I'll start reviewing new restaurants soon.
Maverick Eatery & Wine Bar
Cuisine: Neo-American comfort food
Entree price range: $15-$28
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, one side, bottle of wine [half-price], dessert, coffee, tax, and 20% tip): $123
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 415-863-3061
www.sfmaverick.com
3316 17th Street (at Mission)
San Francisco, Ca 94110
So I decided to go there for Valentine's Day (changed to V-Day Eve because I had to work on Valentine's Day). Going on a Monday we were able to take advantage of Maverick's Monday night promotion: half-off any bottle of wine. That promo alone seemed to pack the place on a Monday night.
Our meal, I would say, was a step up from when I dined last. We got the crab fluffs which are balls of flavorful lump blue crab meat (my favorite crab) deep fried with a crispy exterior and impossibly light, moist, and fluffy interior. The three fluffs are served on a bed of frisee with three small dollops of strong, thick housemade tartare sauce. The only distraction were a few halved cherry tomatoes that were decent given the season but what tomatoes should be.
Second starter was the "Maverick Citrus Salad." This iteration featured blood oranges, tangerines, and watercress with a meyer lemon vinaigrette. The watercress was deliciously peppery, the citrus not overly sweet (almost too tart in spots), offset by the sparse, sweet vinaigrette. Would've liked a touch more even watercress-to-citrus ratio.
Remembering my enjoyment of the steelhead last time, I tried Maverick's fish dish again: pan-roasted monkfish served over a "stew" of steamed potatoes, haricots verts, and chorizo. The piece of fish was absolutely incredible--firm fleshed but delicate with wonderful subtle flavors. The potatoes were smooth and creamy and the chorizo was lent a nice heat to the stew and contrasted nicely with the mild (but a touch lobster-y) fish. The green beans were nicely done too, though they were superfluous (to the point of incongruity) to the dish.
Charlie ordered the Spring Risotto--this one featuring jumbo asparagus, creme fraiche, and meyer lemon confit. The risotto was thick and creamy, the asparagus tender and bright. While the tartness of the lemon was welcome, the nature of the confit left each bite with a sickly sweet aftertaste that was unusual and that we both found unenjoyable--or at least distracting.
I also ordered a side dish of creamed spinach. This was also a mild disappointment--it being more appropriately sauteed leaves of spinach in a rich creamy soup. It was all quite tasty, but it wasn't the balanced mix of chopped spinach, butter, cream, salt, and pepper that I've come to love about creamed spinach. Nevertheless, a generous portion for $4.
We steered clear of the "hot fudge brownie sundae" and opted for the roasted pear bread pudding with caramel sauce. This was a home run. Pieces of roasted bosc pears in a moist and gooey bread pudding with a rich burnt caramel sauce. Served warm, it was one of the best bread puddings I've had that I didn't make.
We also enjoyed a very nice 2004 Albarino (one of the few non-American wines on the list) the worked with our eclectic mix of flavors.
A few final notes: I finally understood what reviewers had meant by the volume in Maverick reaching ridiculous levels. This evening seemed to be a "girls' night out" for a few parties in the tiny dining room and, no doubt fueled by the half-price wine, what should have been the dull roar of conversation turned into a torrent of shrieks and shouts from drunken investment bankers and non-profit administrators. I eat (and work) at loud restaurants all the time and this was the first time I really had to uncomfortably raise my voice to be heard when dining with just one other person. Something else I noticed was that in the short time since I last dined there, the staff was no longer wearing the TGIFriday's-esque polo shirts and were back to being casually dressed in all black.
So I've had three great dinners at Maverick, despite the occasional miss. I strongly urge you to give Maverick a try for an adventurous dinner out.
And yes, I'll start reviewing new restaurants soon.
Maverick Eatery & Wine Bar
Cuisine: Neo-American comfort food
Entree price range: $15-$28
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, one side, bottle of wine [half-price], dessert, coffee, tax, and 20% tip): $123
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 415-863-3061
www.sfmaverick.com
3316 17th Street (at Mission)
San Francisco, Ca 94110
Thursday, February 16, 2006
Bendean - Berkeley, Ca
Why:
So I liked my last experience a lot, Scott had been wanting to try it, and we were hungry and in Berkely on a Sunday, so we went to Bendean for a full meal.
I had been on Solano Ave earlier doing some shopping and homework-ing and had checked out the previous night's menu in the window at Bendean. I was pleasantly surprised to see that about 30% of the menu was different just from the previous night (a Saturday to a Sunday, no less!)
I've really begun to see in action what the force of a dynamic, talented, and committed chef-owner can do to keep a restaurant from getting stagnant. On this night, chef Lance Dean Velasquez patrolled the dining room, greeting customers, chatting about food, clearing and resetting tables, etc. He's not just there, he's present.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott
The Space:
Small but well-spaced fifty-seat dining room divided into a lounge-ish area with a handful of high tables and a dining room with a mix of stand-alone four tops along one wall and two-tops along a banquette against the other. Stylish--perhaps overly so--(a little too Restoration Hardware-y remarked Scott) furniture and fixtures with a closed kitchen. Nice, not too loud, but a little too industrial-stark even for my tastes.
The Wine:
You know, this day included a lot of subsequent drinking and I can't remember more than that it was a 2004 Austrian Gruner Veltliner and that it was nice, warm and apple-y with great mineral notes with a finish that was just a touch too acidic.
The wine list itself is fairly small but diverse and well-tailored to the eclectic menu.
First Course:
We opted to try something that Bendean's become known for, chef Lance Velasquez's pork chile rojo. We got it in the form of something called "tostitos." These are ostensibly the same format (as far as I could tell) as the tostaditas you see on some tapas menus--three small discs of fried tortilla piled with tender, slightly spicy pork and some traditional garnishes. The pork was tender and the whole dish was delicious and warming. Nothing remarkable, just tasty.
Our other starter were steamed Fox Island mussels with french fries and aioli. This dish was out of this world--mussels were steamed to the point of tenderness in a rich, creamy, lemony broth that was, to say the least, "retarded." That means good, somehow. The fries were thin and crisp, great with either the creamy, mildly garlicky aioli or dipped in the incredible broth. One of the simplest (and delicious-est) mussels preparations I've had.
Entrees:
I ordered the curried french lentils with cucumber-yogurt raita. The lentils were cooked perfectly, still firm but not at all hard. Most importantly they weren't cooked to mush. The dish was rich in with curry spices that were warming to almost-hot levels. It was a perfect flavor-spiciness and not just capsaicin-spiciness. Building on the eclectic nature of Bendeans menu, a handful of mirepoix vegetables were cooked with the lentils that included incomparably sweet carrots. Whiel I would've liked a bit more of the cooling raita to swirl in and the accompanying lentil-flour crepe was somewhat flavorless, this was still the best vegetarian dish I've had in recent memory.
Scott opted for the chicken pot pie, essentially a piece of puff pastry smothered in a thick and rich chicken and vegetable gravy with a second puff pastry on top. While a few pieces of chicken were a little bit tough, most of it was tender and flavorful. The gravy was thick without being lumpy or gooey and the same ridiculous carrots reappeared in more generous portions. With all of these strong but simple flavors the puff pastry was almost an afterthought--not that it wasn't good (it was what puff pastry should be), it just didn't lend any extra weight (other than caloric heft) to the dish.
Dessert:
After two visits, dessert seems to be Bendean's one somewhat weak point. Like the lemon poppyseed cake on my visit, our chocolate gingerbread cake was bright with flavor but overly dry. Additional whipped cream could've mitigated this, but I'd much rather have a moister cake. The lines of thick dark chocolate ganache decorating the plate were very good and chocolatey and would've been welcomed in greater quantity. In the future, I'll need to give the bread puddings a try.
In Conclusion:
Bendean has firmly placed itself among my favorite restaurants. The execution from the kitchen that I've experienced has been comparable in quality to Chez Panisse Cafe andVelasquez seems committed to a menu that takes risks and challenges diners. With a menu that changes seemingly daily, Bendean also has a reason to keep frequent diners coming back.
Bendean
Cuisine: Cal-Med/Eclectic
Entree price range: $15-$22
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, one dessert, one bottle of wine, tax, 20% tip): $120.
Reservations: 510-526-3700
1647 Solano Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94706
So I liked my last experience a lot, Scott had been wanting to try it, and we were hungry and in Berkely on a Sunday, so we went to Bendean for a full meal.
I had been on Solano Ave earlier doing some shopping and homework-ing and had checked out the previous night's menu in the window at Bendean. I was pleasantly surprised to see that about 30% of the menu was different just from the previous night (a Saturday to a Sunday, no less!)
I've really begun to see in action what the force of a dynamic, talented, and committed chef-owner can do to keep a restaurant from getting stagnant. On this night, chef Lance Dean Velasquez patrolled the dining room, greeting customers, chatting about food, clearing and resetting tables, etc. He's not just there, he's present.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott
The Space:
Small but well-spaced fifty-seat dining room divided into a lounge-ish area with a handful of high tables and a dining room with a mix of stand-alone four tops along one wall and two-tops along a banquette against the other. Stylish--perhaps overly so--(a little too Restoration Hardware-y remarked Scott) furniture and fixtures with a closed kitchen. Nice, not too loud, but a little too industrial-stark even for my tastes.
The Wine:
You know, this day included a lot of subsequent drinking and I can't remember more than that it was a 2004 Austrian Gruner Veltliner and that it was nice, warm and apple-y with great mineral notes with a finish that was just a touch too acidic.
The wine list itself is fairly small but diverse and well-tailored to the eclectic menu.
First Course:
We opted to try something that Bendean's become known for, chef Lance Velasquez's pork chile rojo. We got it in the form of something called "tostitos." These are ostensibly the same format (as far as I could tell) as the tostaditas you see on some tapas menus--three small discs of fried tortilla piled with tender, slightly spicy pork and some traditional garnishes. The pork was tender and the whole dish was delicious and warming. Nothing remarkable, just tasty.
Our other starter were steamed Fox Island mussels with french fries and aioli. This dish was out of this world--mussels were steamed to the point of tenderness in a rich, creamy, lemony broth that was, to say the least, "retarded." That means good, somehow. The fries were thin and crisp, great with either the creamy, mildly garlicky aioli or dipped in the incredible broth. One of the simplest (and delicious-est) mussels preparations I've had.
Entrees:
I ordered the curried french lentils with cucumber-yogurt raita. The lentils were cooked perfectly, still firm but not at all hard. Most importantly they weren't cooked to mush. The dish was rich in with curry spices that were warming to almost-hot levels. It was a perfect flavor-spiciness and not just capsaicin-spiciness. Building on the eclectic nature of Bendeans menu, a handful of mirepoix vegetables were cooked with the lentils that included incomparably sweet carrots. Whiel I would've liked a bit more of the cooling raita to swirl in and the accompanying lentil-flour crepe was somewhat flavorless, this was still the best vegetarian dish I've had in recent memory.
Scott opted for the chicken pot pie, essentially a piece of puff pastry smothered in a thick and rich chicken and vegetable gravy with a second puff pastry on top. While a few pieces of chicken were a little bit tough, most of it was tender and flavorful. The gravy was thick without being lumpy or gooey and the same ridiculous carrots reappeared in more generous portions. With all of these strong but simple flavors the puff pastry was almost an afterthought--not that it wasn't good (it was what puff pastry should be), it just didn't lend any extra weight (other than caloric heft) to the dish.
Dessert:
After two visits, dessert seems to be Bendean's one somewhat weak point. Like the lemon poppyseed cake on my visit, our chocolate gingerbread cake was bright with flavor but overly dry. Additional whipped cream could've mitigated this, but I'd much rather have a moister cake. The lines of thick dark chocolate ganache decorating the plate were very good and chocolatey and would've been welcomed in greater quantity. In the future, I'll need to give the bread puddings a try.
In Conclusion:
Bendean has firmly placed itself among my favorite restaurants. The execution from the kitchen that I've experienced has been comparable in quality to Chez Panisse Cafe andVelasquez seems committed to a menu that takes risks and challenges diners. With a menu that changes seemingly daily, Bendean also has a reason to keep frequent diners coming back.
Bendean
Cuisine: Cal-Med/Eclectic
Entree price range: $15-$22
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, one dessert, one bottle of wine, tax, 20% tip): $120.
Reservations: 510-526-3700
1647 Solano Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94706
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Rant: Ice Buckets
I hate ice buckets.
I don't mind them as vehicles for storing or transporting ice for parties. That works. I do mind them when their used to get already too-cold wines to near-freezing levels.
What this comes from, I think, is this misaken belief that white wine should be drunk cold. Fuck that, white wine should be drunk cool.
Certain bad white wines (as all alcoholic beverages do) benefit from being really fucking cold. That's because flavors that give wine character--acid, alcohol, musty, minerals, flavor in general beyond "wine flavor"--are tempered (or even eliminated) as the temperature goes down. In bad wines, these character notes are usually pretty bad.
In good wine, however, these flavors are warming and exciting when you taste wine. The middle range of flavors in particular is lost when a wine gets cold. The range of tastes and sensations you'll experience between the initial taste and the finish are virtually non-existent in overly-chilled wine.
Pop a bottle of wine in the freezer and get it nice and cold. Take it out and open it. Taste it every 15 minutes and notice how flavor and complexity builds as it warms. A good white wine should be enjoyable for well over an hour after being removed from refrigeration. I promise.
You people who get an ice bucket for ONE bottle of wine for FOUR people? You're all going to hell.
I don't mind them as vehicles for storing or transporting ice for parties. That works. I do mind them when their used to get already too-cold wines to near-freezing levels.
What this comes from, I think, is this misaken belief that white wine should be drunk cold. Fuck that, white wine should be drunk cool.
Certain bad white wines (as all alcoholic beverages do) benefit from being really fucking cold. That's because flavors that give wine character--acid, alcohol, musty, minerals, flavor in general beyond "wine flavor"--are tempered (or even eliminated) as the temperature goes down. In bad wines, these character notes are usually pretty bad.
In good wine, however, these flavors are warming and exciting when you taste wine. The middle range of flavors in particular is lost when a wine gets cold. The range of tastes and sensations you'll experience between the initial taste and the finish are virtually non-existent in overly-chilled wine.
Pop a bottle of wine in the freezer and get it nice and cold. Take it out and open it. Taste it every 15 minutes and notice how flavor and complexity builds as it warms. A good white wine should be enjoyable for well over an hour after being removed from refrigeration. I promise.
You people who get an ice bucket for ONE bottle of wine for FOUR people? You're all going to hell.
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
HFF Quickie: Bendean - Berkeley, Ca
Sometimes I just want to eat something good, relatively inexpensive, in a relaxed atmosphere. I found myself walking around Solano Avenue at 5:oo on a Monday night hungry and with homework to read. Nothing sounded good to me. My usual casual Mediterranean restaurants are not terribly good for homework (something about getting baba ganoush on textbooks).
After renting a few DVDs at Five Star, I found myself strolling past Bendean. They had just open and were serving Ben's Supper (5-6PM Tues-Thurs, all night Sun & Mon), their $13.50 three course prix fixe dinner. I'd heard good things about the food, great things about the space, and mediocre things about the service, so why not?
A note about "early bird" prix fixe meals. I think that they can be a very specious concept. At a restaurant I worked at we introcuded an early bird three-course dinner to bring in business and it failed miserably. First of all, even if they want to there are very few people who are able to come out to dinner before 6PM. Second, people who do eat dinner at 5PM are ALWAYS going to eat dinner at 5PM--you're not going to bring in otherwise late-dining individuals. Third, the "value-conscious diners" who come for a $13 prix fixe are NOT going to come back on a Friday night to spend $40 a head on dinner. Lastly, in my experience, the prix fixe is usually not particularly interesting or even well done.
At Bendean, however, a combination of not having my interest piqued by the meat-heavy entree list and the surprising diversity on Ben's Supper (mixed greens and beet salad; rizo pasta with criminis, bacon, and grana; lemon-poppyseed cake) I went for it. I was thoroughly impressed.
The salad was excellent--fresh field greens with pungent goat cheese and nice thick slices of roasted beets. Much better than the generic mixed greens on other three-course dinners.
I appreciated that on my main dish that it wasn't called "risotto" on the menu. Risotto is a slow-cooked arborio rice dish. Many restaurants pass off a quick-cooked pasta dish as risotto, which it's not, no matter how delicious it may be. Bendean's rizo pasta dish was warm, creamy, smoky, and not overly rich. Thick chunks of mushrooms with a smattering of smoky bacon provided good depth of flavor. There also was an unidentified green (I think spinach) and a hefty dose of grana that gave it the requisite creaminess.
The lemon-poppyseed pound cake was quite dry, which wasn't so good, but it had a bright lemon flavor and was stuffed with fresh poppyseeds.
What I got at Bendean was good, diverse food. The ingredients were quality and there was a measure of care and attention put in to planning the menu. The menu also changes weekly (or even daily, from what I've heard) I knew that I wasnt' going to get the best that their kitchen was putting out, but that's why it's the prix-fixe.
It was what it was, and what it was was good.
Bendean
Cuisine: Cal-Med/Eclectic
Entree price range: $15-$22
HFF's cost for one (prix fixe, glass of wine, tax, 20% tip): $28
Reservations: 510-526-3700
1647 Solano Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94706
After renting a few DVDs at Five Star, I found myself strolling past Bendean. They had just open and were serving Ben's Supper (5-6PM Tues-Thurs, all night Sun & Mon), their $13.50 three course prix fixe dinner. I'd heard good things about the food, great things about the space, and mediocre things about the service, so why not?
A note about "early bird" prix fixe meals. I think that they can be a very specious concept. At a restaurant I worked at we introcuded an early bird three-course dinner to bring in business and it failed miserably. First of all, even if they want to there are very few people who are able to come out to dinner before 6PM. Second, people who do eat dinner at 5PM are ALWAYS going to eat dinner at 5PM--you're not going to bring in otherwise late-dining individuals. Third, the "value-conscious diners" who come for a $13 prix fixe are NOT going to come back on a Friday night to spend $40 a head on dinner. Lastly, in my experience, the prix fixe is usually not particularly interesting or even well done.
At Bendean, however, a combination of not having my interest piqued by the meat-heavy entree list and the surprising diversity on Ben's Supper (mixed greens and beet salad; rizo pasta with criminis, bacon, and grana; lemon-poppyseed cake) I went for it. I was thoroughly impressed.
The salad was excellent--fresh field greens with pungent goat cheese and nice thick slices of roasted beets. Much better than the generic mixed greens on other three-course dinners.
I appreciated that on my main dish that it wasn't called "risotto" on the menu. Risotto is a slow-cooked arborio rice dish. Many restaurants pass off a quick-cooked pasta dish as risotto, which it's not, no matter how delicious it may be. Bendean's rizo pasta dish was warm, creamy, smoky, and not overly rich. Thick chunks of mushrooms with a smattering of smoky bacon provided good depth of flavor. There also was an unidentified green (I think spinach) and a hefty dose of grana that gave it the requisite creaminess.
The lemon-poppyseed pound cake was quite dry, which wasn't so good, but it had a bright lemon flavor and was stuffed with fresh poppyseeds.
What I got at Bendean was good, diverse food. The ingredients were quality and there was a measure of care and attention put in to planning the menu. The menu also changes weekly (or even daily, from what I've heard) I knew that I wasnt' going to get the best that their kitchen was putting out, but that's why it's the prix-fixe.
It was what it was, and what it was was good.
Bendean
Cuisine: Cal-Med/Eclectic
Entree price range: $15-$22
HFF's cost for one (prix fixe, glass of wine, tax, 20% tip): $28
Reservations: 510-526-3700
1647 Solano Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94706
Saturday, February 04, 2006
Critical Eating: Restaurant Appreciation
So forget a rant about ice buckets. That's not very interesting.
I'd like to kick off an inaugural segment of something I'm going to call "critical eating." Critical eating is the process by which you look at what you eat from something more than just the immediate physical pleasure (or pain) that that food instills in you. It's taking a look at why you're having the reaction that you are--what about the flavors, textures, setting, plating that makes the dish work or not work. It's also about pushing aside prejudices and preferences--so you like pork, big fucking deal--that doesn't mean you need to get pork every time you're out. So you "don't like fish?" I find that highly doubtful. Critical eating is attempting to wrap your brain around your culinary experience--get yourself to understand food, eating, and dining in a new way.
It'll make your life better, I swear.
So the first thing I want to talk about is restaurant appreciation. What is often missed when dining out is that ultimately the enjoyment of the food rests on you, the consumer. If you dislike a menu item, chances are that it's not the restaurant's fault--what you ate just wasn't to your tastes. I work at a restaurant with a fairly narrowly-focused menu. Often I'm asked (though not as much as before)--Oh, you don't serve X? Why don't you have a glass of Y?
It's not a restaurant's job to be all things to all people. A restaurant's job is to do what it thinks it needs to do to succeed. And if that's not to your tastes, then don't go there. There's nothing wrong with that. I don't go to steakhouses. I'm sure there are many steakhouses that serve an excellent product. Steakhouse cuisine is not something I like, but I don't get all pissed off at steakhouses for not having something that appeals to my interests. That would be retarded.
What I'm attempting to say is just this--it's okay not to like a restaurant, but don't blame the restaurant for the fact that you don't like it. Blame the restaurant if your meat is overcooked. Blame the restaurnt if your soup is cold. Blame the restaurant if your wine is oxidized. But don't blame the restaurant if you can't taste the difference between Gorton's fish sticks and pan-fried sand dabs.
If you don't like what a restaurant does--understand that other people do, that it's probably just a matter of taste and move on with your life.
I'd like to kick off an inaugural segment of something I'm going to call "critical eating." Critical eating is the process by which you look at what you eat from something more than just the immediate physical pleasure (or pain) that that food instills in you. It's taking a look at why you're having the reaction that you are--what about the flavors, textures, setting, plating that makes the dish work or not work. It's also about pushing aside prejudices and preferences--so you like pork, big fucking deal--that doesn't mean you need to get pork every time you're out. So you "don't like fish?" I find that highly doubtful. Critical eating is attempting to wrap your brain around your culinary experience--get yourself to understand food, eating, and dining in a new way.
It'll make your life better, I swear.
So the first thing I want to talk about is restaurant appreciation. What is often missed when dining out is that ultimately the enjoyment of the food rests on you, the consumer. If you dislike a menu item, chances are that it's not the restaurant's fault--what you ate just wasn't to your tastes. I work at a restaurant with a fairly narrowly-focused menu. Often I'm asked (though not as much as before)--Oh, you don't serve X? Why don't you have a glass of Y?
It's not a restaurant's job to be all things to all people. A restaurant's job is to do what it thinks it needs to do to succeed. And if that's not to your tastes, then don't go there. There's nothing wrong with that. I don't go to steakhouses. I'm sure there are many steakhouses that serve an excellent product. Steakhouse cuisine is not something I like, but I don't get all pissed off at steakhouses for not having something that appeals to my interests. That would be retarded.
What I'm attempting to say is just this--it's okay not to like a restaurant, but don't blame the restaurant for the fact that you don't like it. Blame the restaurant if your meat is overcooked. Blame the restaurnt if your soup is cold. Blame the restaurant if your wine is oxidized. But don't blame the restaurant if you can't taste the difference between Gorton's fish sticks and pan-fried sand dabs.
If you don't like what a restaurant does--understand that other people do, that it's probably just a matter of taste and move on with your life.
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Rant: White Wine
A common problem I encounter in wine service is a desire for one of three things: a "dry" white wine, an ice bucket, and chardonnay.
Let me expand upon the subject of "dry" white wine.
The vast majority of wines served on the regular wine list at restaurants in California are dry. Many roses are dry. Many rieslings and gewurztraminers (and other traditionally "sweet" varietals) are dry. What people USUALLY mean when they're asking for a "dry" white wine is an ACIDIC white wine.
So fucking ask for that. If you ask for a dry white wine--99% of wines on a list will fit the bill. However there are rieslings and gruner veltliners that are dry and minerally. There are ruedas that are dry and citrusy with strong floral characters on the nose. There are vermentinos and albarinos that are big and spicy with long acidic finishes. Viogniers and muscadets can be dry but musty and/or grassy. All these wines are dry. All are very very different.
But why do you even necessarily want an acidic wine? Acidic wines are not necessarily great to drink alone, but they work nicely with mild seafood and most light and spicy cuisine. Acid perks up the taste buds and cleanses the pallet, brightening up delicate flavors and tempering spice.
Just because a wine isn't bone-dry acidic doesn't mean it's a white zinfandel. So calm down, open your mind, and drink a lot of wine.
Then you'll find out what you really like.
Let me expand upon the subject of "dry" white wine.
The vast majority of wines served on the regular wine list at restaurants in California are dry. Many roses are dry. Many rieslings and gewurztraminers (and other traditionally "sweet" varietals) are dry. What people USUALLY mean when they're asking for a "dry" white wine is an ACIDIC white wine.
So fucking ask for that. If you ask for a dry white wine--99% of wines on a list will fit the bill. However there are rieslings and gruner veltliners that are dry and minerally. There are ruedas that are dry and citrusy with strong floral characters on the nose. There are vermentinos and albarinos that are big and spicy with long acidic finishes. Viogniers and muscadets can be dry but musty and/or grassy. All these wines are dry. All are very very different.
But why do you even necessarily want an acidic wine? Acidic wines are not necessarily great to drink alone, but they work nicely with mild seafood and most light and spicy cuisine. Acid perks up the taste buds and cleanses the pallet, brightening up delicate flavors and tempering spice.
Just because a wine isn't bone-dry acidic doesn't mean it's a white zinfandel. So calm down, open your mind, and drink a lot of wine.
Then you'll find out what you really like.
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
Wine: 2003 Canayli Vermentino di Gallura
Me and girlfriend Charlie were making pan-seared salmon with a sort of Mediterranean bent (tabouleh, hummus, and a spicy creamed spinach) but we found ourselves totally out of wine. A quick trip to Piedmont Ave and a stop at A.G. Ferrari yielded this well-received vermentino from Gallura. I'm not generally an Italian white wine fan, but I'd had good luck with vermentinos in the past so I decided to pick this up (it was being offered at a significant discount, too). I'm a big fan of bigger-bodied acidic white wines with strong fish dishes like salmon, so why the hell not?
When initially sampled cold (very cold), it had a very lush, fruity nose (notes of citrus and butter). It also was a touch musty. The finish was long, crisp, and acidic. The wine was totally dead across the palette, however. As it warmed through our meal, the palette of the wine increased in complexity somewhat, though it still tasted very, very light.
After our meal I was somewhat disappointed with the Canayli since it seemed neither representative of the varietal nor particularly complex in character. However, I tasted the wine the next day and it was markedly different. I had only sat corked in the fridge overnight (no VaccuVin or anything). The wine had changed significantly. The butter was gone (which I didn't mind) and the wine developed a very nice warmth and broad acidity across the palette moving to a lingering and distinctly apple-y finish.
A very good if uncharacteristic wine. Open and let breathe for 24 hours before serving, which is a definite downside.
Country: Italy (Gallura)
Varietal/blend: 100% Vermentino
Price: $12.99 (sale)
Purchased: A.G. Ferrari Foods, Piedmont Ave.
Saturday, January 28, 2006
Maverick Eatery & Wine Bar - San Francisco, Ca
Why:
I've been to Maverick once before and I really enjoyed the food, service, and space--including a brief chat with chef/co-owner Scott Youkilis (who was acting as waiter/manager that evening). After a modest review in the Chronicle (seemingly downgraded by Bauer's tiresome criticism of the noise level of the restaurant), I was curious to see how the restaurant had evolved in the last few months.
What I love about Maverick is they take a premise--neo-American comfort food--and run with it in an innovative and successful way. It's concept and execution, which is rare in a restaurant with a focused theme.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott
The Space:
One of my favorite rooms in the Bay Area--a cramped, wood-paneled dining room with thick wood tables and comfy heavy wood chairs. It's very very dark (so dark that I couldn't take pictures) but lit well enough to see the food and decor well. Also one of the coolest bathrooms in town.
The Wine:
Scott opted for a pinot noir flight--two from the Willamette Valley and one from Carneros. All were pretty straight forward. The Willamette pinots having a bit more spiciness. I'm not a red wine person, so it's not my strong suit.
I opted for a Russian River trousseau gris, which was nice and mellow, fairly light-bodied but had a nice spiciness that picked up as the wine warmed. My second glass was a central coast gewurztraminer that was pretty boring--missing the minerality on the finish and the floral nose that makes this varietal work for me.
Maverick's wine list is almost entirely American, with a big list of California wines (along with bottles from New Mexico, Oregon, Michigan, Virgina, New York, and Washington). Being a white wine fan, I just can't enjoy most American whites because, for whatever reason, we don't seem to produce whites of a top quality and complexity (exceptions being chardonnay and sauvignon blanc--both of which I don't really care for, and the reliable viognier, which can be quite good).
Interesting service note: glasses of wine are poured at the table.
First course:
What drew me to Maverick were the buffalo "wings"--frogs' legs sauteed in Frank's Red Hot Sauce with carrot and celery crudite and ranch dressing. I'd only had frogs' legs once before and been wanting to try a top-rate preparation. The legs, which were very very small, were nice and tender with a delicate flavor--not the bland chewiness from my previous frogs' leg experience--and Frank's Red Hot Sauce was what it was: one of the best and most flavorful hot sauces out there. Great mix of flavors and a great, well-executed concept.
Second appetizer was a beet and goat cheese tartlet with prosciutto. The roasted beets were fresh and incredible. They were also actually served warm, the first time I'd encountered warm roasted beets in a dish. The goat cheese was nice and pungent and the crust was salty and buttery--almost like a delicious Ritz cracker. The big problem here was that there simply wasn't enough cheese or crust to hold up against the pile of incredible beets. You could get very few bites of cheese and crust (let alone the nearly absent prosciutto [which, when tasted, was also fairly flavorless as prosciuttos go]). Luckily, the beets were pretty fucking great. But why take the time to carefully craft this nice mix of flavors if you're not going to provide them in a ratio that'll let them shine together?
Entrees:
Scott opted for the seared Liberty duck breast with Israeli cous cous and brussels sprouts. The duck was rich and flavorful (though, as Scott noted, cooked more medium-rare/medium than truly "seared") with moderate fat and a delicate gaminess. Scott found the accompaniments to be overcooked--I agreed on the cous cous, finding it flavorful but mushy (far from al dente), but I thought the brussels sprouts, while softer than most preparations I've had, were still tender.
I ordered the steelhead with swiss chard, once again violating my general rule about ordering seafood out. This time I was not disappointed at all. The steelhead was perfectly cooked to where there was just a sliver of pink in the middle, lightly seasoned, incredibly moist, and very flavorful with the mild creaminess of the fresh Pacific salmon without the hints of briny fishiness. Steelhead's great right now and this dish was cooked perfectly. The swiss chard (one of my favorite greens) was just barely wilted, pairing nicely with the restrained forcefulness of the trout. The only odd spot was the warm sherry vinegar sauce which tasted just the slightest bit scorched.
Dessert:
Here was our one strikeout--the "hot fudge brownie sundae" had either heat nor fudge, instead being a slightly sweet (and dry) brownie with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, brandied cherries (actually, cherry as far as we could tell) and peanuts. It was a decent dessert flavor-wise but what the fuck? It wasn't even hot! Or warm! It wasn't a rich and gooey hot fudge brownie sundae at all! Come on! You could've AT LEAST just called it a chocolate brownie sundae or something like that. Don't call it "hot" and then not serve it with some real hot fudge. Boo Maverick, boo.
In conclusion:
Maverick once again impressed me with its innovation and bold flavors. I have some concerns in the direction I see it heading--service was friendly but more casual than on my first visit, the servers are no also wearing wierd TGI's-ish logo polo rhists instead of a simple black-on-black uniform. They're also now offering a $25 three course "tasting menu" on Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday--which looked more like the usual boring prix fixe that lesser restaurants offer to get lame cheap people to come in and eat. A green salad, roasted haddock, and bread pudding is not a terrible interesting or innovative tasting menu. This restaurant is better than that. One fun promotion: Monday nights, all bottles of wine are 50% off.
Maverick Eatery & Wine Bar
Cuisine: Neo-American comfort food
Entree price range: $15-$28
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, four glasses of wine, dessert, tax, and 20% tip): $126
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 415-863-3061
www.sfmaverick.com
3316 17th Street (at Mission)
San Francisco, Ca 94110
I've been to Maverick once before and I really enjoyed the food, service, and space--including a brief chat with chef/co-owner Scott Youkilis (who was acting as waiter/manager that evening). After a modest review in the Chronicle (seemingly downgraded by Bauer's tiresome criticism of the noise level of the restaurant), I was curious to see how the restaurant had evolved in the last few months.
What I love about Maverick is they take a premise--neo-American comfort food--and run with it in an innovative and successful way. It's concept and execution, which is rare in a restaurant with a focused theme.
Who:
Me and Chef Scott
The Space:
One of my favorite rooms in the Bay Area--a cramped, wood-paneled dining room with thick wood tables and comfy heavy wood chairs. It's very very dark (so dark that I couldn't take pictures) but lit well enough to see the food and decor well. Also one of the coolest bathrooms in town.
The Wine:
Scott opted for a pinot noir flight--two from the Willamette Valley and one from Carneros. All were pretty straight forward. The Willamette pinots having a bit more spiciness. I'm not a red wine person, so it's not my strong suit.
I opted for a Russian River trousseau gris, which was nice and mellow, fairly light-bodied but had a nice spiciness that picked up as the wine warmed. My second glass was a central coast gewurztraminer that was pretty boring--missing the minerality on the finish and the floral nose that makes this varietal work for me.
Maverick's wine list is almost entirely American, with a big list of California wines (along with bottles from New Mexico, Oregon, Michigan, Virgina, New York, and Washington). Being a white wine fan, I just can't enjoy most American whites because, for whatever reason, we don't seem to produce whites of a top quality and complexity (exceptions being chardonnay and sauvignon blanc--both of which I don't really care for, and the reliable viognier, which can be quite good).
Interesting service note: glasses of wine are poured at the table.
First course:
What drew me to Maverick were the buffalo "wings"--frogs' legs sauteed in Frank's Red Hot Sauce with carrot and celery crudite and ranch dressing. I'd only had frogs' legs once before and been wanting to try a top-rate preparation. The legs, which were very very small, were nice and tender with a delicate flavor--not the bland chewiness from my previous frogs' leg experience--and Frank's Red Hot Sauce was what it was: one of the best and most flavorful hot sauces out there. Great mix of flavors and a great, well-executed concept.
Second appetizer was a beet and goat cheese tartlet with prosciutto. The roasted beets were fresh and incredible. They were also actually served warm, the first time I'd encountered warm roasted beets in a dish. The goat cheese was nice and pungent and the crust was salty and buttery--almost like a delicious Ritz cracker. The big problem here was that there simply wasn't enough cheese or crust to hold up against the pile of incredible beets. You could get very few bites of cheese and crust (let alone the nearly absent prosciutto [which, when tasted, was also fairly flavorless as prosciuttos go]). Luckily, the beets were pretty fucking great. But why take the time to carefully craft this nice mix of flavors if you're not going to provide them in a ratio that'll let them shine together?
Entrees:
Scott opted for the seared Liberty duck breast with Israeli cous cous and brussels sprouts. The duck was rich and flavorful (though, as Scott noted, cooked more medium-rare/medium than truly "seared") with moderate fat and a delicate gaminess. Scott found the accompaniments to be overcooked--I agreed on the cous cous, finding it flavorful but mushy (far from al dente), but I thought the brussels sprouts, while softer than most preparations I've had, were still tender.
I ordered the steelhead with swiss chard, once again violating my general rule about ordering seafood out. This time I was not disappointed at all. The steelhead was perfectly cooked to where there was just a sliver of pink in the middle, lightly seasoned, incredibly moist, and very flavorful with the mild creaminess of the fresh Pacific salmon without the hints of briny fishiness. Steelhead's great right now and this dish was cooked perfectly. The swiss chard (one of my favorite greens) was just barely wilted, pairing nicely with the restrained forcefulness of the trout. The only odd spot was the warm sherry vinegar sauce which tasted just the slightest bit scorched.
Dessert:
Here was our one strikeout--the "hot fudge brownie sundae" had either heat nor fudge, instead being a slightly sweet (and dry) brownie with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, brandied cherries (actually, cherry as far as we could tell) and peanuts. It was a decent dessert flavor-wise but what the fuck? It wasn't even hot! Or warm! It wasn't a rich and gooey hot fudge brownie sundae at all! Come on! You could've AT LEAST just called it a chocolate brownie sundae or something like that. Don't call it "hot" and then not serve it with some real hot fudge. Boo Maverick, boo.
In conclusion:
Maverick once again impressed me with its innovation and bold flavors. I have some concerns in the direction I see it heading--service was friendly but more casual than on my first visit, the servers are no also wearing wierd TGI's-ish logo polo rhists instead of a simple black-on-black uniform. They're also now offering a $25 three course "tasting menu" on Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday--which looked more like the usual boring prix fixe that lesser restaurants offer to get lame cheap people to come in and eat. A green salad, roasted haddock, and bread pudding is not a terrible interesting or innovative tasting menu. This restaurant is better than that. One fun promotion: Monday nights, all bottles of wine are 50% off.
Maverick Eatery & Wine Bar
Cuisine: Neo-American comfort food
Entree price range: $15-$28
HFF's cost for two (two starters, two entrees, four glasses of wine, dessert, tax, and 20% tip): $126
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 415-863-3061
www.sfmaverick.com
3316 17th Street (at Mission)
San Francisco, Ca 94110
Thursday, January 26, 2006
A few notes....
So a couple notes to answer things that readers (okay reader) may notice:
1. Yes, a lot of reviews are going to be mostly positive. Especially early on since I'm going to be writing about places that I frequent. I don't usually frequent places that I dislike. Except your mom's house.
2. I promise AT LEAST one new (to me) restaurant reviewed a week.
3. Ideas for spinoffs and rants are in the works.
4. Daily posting should commence next week.
1. Yes, a lot of reviews are going to be mostly positive. Especially early on since I'm going to be writing about places that I frequent. I don't usually frequent places that I dislike. Except your mom's house.
2. I promise AT LEAST one new (to me) restaurant reviewed a week.
3. Ideas for spinoffs and rants are in the works.
4. Daily posting should commence next week.
Sunday, January 22, 2006
Luka's Taproom & Lounge - Oakland, Ca
Why:
I've been to Luka's several times late night for drinks, fries, and mac & cheese (awesome) and I'd eaten dinner there once a while ago and enjoyed it, so I figured I'd cruise in, sit at the bar, and see what they've got going on for lunch. Hell, I was in downtown Oakland anyway and what else is there to do there?
Who:
Me.
The Space:
You know, Luka's. Long L-shaped bar, high bar tables in front, low banquettes and booths in the back. 1940's-style pool-hall in the very back. Rave room in the front. It's four venues in one!
The Beer:
I opted for something new and tried the Duchesse de Bourgogne Flemish red ale. I'm a beer fan, though I'm not a big Belgian beer fan. I like Trappistes, witbiers, and the darker ales and lagers. I'm not a big fan of lambics or guezes, but I was at Luka's and had had Delirium Tremens enough, so what the fuck, why not try something newl? The beer, served in a wine glass, was quite strong with a pronounced sweet and sour characteristic. It tasted akin to an off-dry riesling mixed with yoghurt--a total slap to my tastebuds initially, but the flavor grew on me nicely as I sipped. A definite sipping beer and a definite beer to drink only if you're eating too. The beer's sourness brightened up a lot of the flavors in my vegetarian meal.
First Course:
I had planned to just get a sandwich and some fries and call it a party, but I was totally intrigued by the celeriac and fuji apple soup with roasted hazelnuts and brown butter. Pretty much my four favorite things (except celeriac. I honestly didn't know exactly what it was--it's what I assumed, a rootier cultivar of celery). It was fucking awesome. A hearty but not overly-rich creamy soup. The apple made its presence known without making the soup too sweet and the brown butter did what brown butter does when well made--be delicious. And where there's brown butter there're hazelnuts. They're the platonic lesbians of tastiness.
Entree:
I love beets. I love beets a lot. I ordered the roasted golden beet sandwich with herbed chevre on pain de mie. The sandwich came simply but elegantly presented on a large plate with a small mixed green salad. The beets were fresh and flavorful--very mellow, even for golden beets, but with an earthiness that shone through. The chevre was what it was--a touch pungent with basic garden herbs--nothing remarkable, but pleasant. A thin layer of aioli worked nicely with the beets but clashed awkwardly with the chevre, blending in just enough that it succeeded only in making the cheese taste weirdly garlicky. But like I said it worked really well with the beet end of things. What to do?
Complaint: I didn't mind that the sandwich was cold--the beets, cheese, etc. I liked that. But why did the bread have to be toasted but served at room temperature? The bread was great fresh pain de mie, but room temperature toast does little for me but tear up the roof of my mouth.
The side salad was lightly dressed, fresh, and diverse--arugula, spinach, and purple onion being the principals.
Fries:
Luka's fries are great--thick and filling with a hefty amount of residual oil. Crispy outside, soft inside, etc. They still haven't won me over with the sauces--they aren't bad, but they lack distinction. The smoked paprika ketchup is my favorite, but I'd love it spicier. The same goes for the other sauces--the herb aioli could be way herbier and the chipotle aioli could be smokier and spicier. The fries are so thick and have their own strong flavor that the sauces need to be more assertive or else they're just along for the ride.
Dessert:
I didn't plan to get dessert, but I did anyway--I'm a sucker for warm, rich, seasonal fruit desserts (almost as much as I'm a sucker for being punched in the face with dark chocolate). The almond and huckleberry clafouti with lemon creme fraiche was pretty damn good. Served in a wide shallow ramekin with a layer of warm sweet huckleberries on the bottom and an eggy cakey almond batter on top, all nice and warm with the slowly melting dollop of the creme fraiche and a few fresh huckleberries finishing it off. The cake layer was a little too thick, overwhelming the berriness of the berries, shrouding them in too much batter. The cake itself, however, was buttery and not too sweet.
In Conclusion:
I'm adding Luka's to my regular lunch destinations--it's not just for late night french fries. Though I went nuts and spent $40, I could've easily put together a great lunch for half that. Great food in a relaxed, hip, but unpretentious atmosphere. Plus you can park easily (and it's not full of neo-yuppies) at 2:00 in the afternoon.
Luka's Taproom and Lounge
Cuisine: Belgian-inspired California pub food
Price range: $7-$13 (sandwiches) $12-$19 (entrees)
HFF's cost for one (soup, sandwich, fries, dessert, beer, tax & generous tip): $40
Reservations: (I think so) 510-451-4677
www.lukasoakland.com
2221 Broadway (at W. Grand)
Oakland, Ca 94612
I've been to Luka's several times late night for drinks, fries, and mac & cheese (awesome) and I'd eaten dinner there once a while ago and enjoyed it, so I figured I'd cruise in, sit at the bar, and see what they've got going on for lunch. Hell, I was in downtown Oakland anyway and what else is there to do there?
Who:
Me.
The Space:
You know, Luka's. Long L-shaped bar, high bar tables in front, low banquettes and booths in the back. 1940's-style pool-hall in the very back. Rave room in the front. It's four venues in one!
The Beer:
I opted for something new and tried the Duchesse de Bourgogne Flemish red ale. I'm a beer fan, though I'm not a big Belgian beer fan. I like Trappistes, witbiers, and the darker ales and lagers. I'm not a big fan of lambics or guezes, but I was at Luka's and had had Delirium Tremens enough, so what the fuck, why not try something newl? The beer, served in a wine glass, was quite strong with a pronounced sweet and sour characteristic. It tasted akin to an off-dry riesling mixed with yoghurt--a total slap to my tastebuds initially, but the flavor grew on me nicely as I sipped. A definite sipping beer and a definite beer to drink only if you're eating too. The beer's sourness brightened up a lot of the flavors in my vegetarian meal.
First Course:I had planned to just get a sandwich and some fries and call it a party, but I was totally intrigued by the celeriac and fuji apple soup with roasted hazelnuts and brown butter. Pretty much my four favorite things (except celeriac. I honestly didn't know exactly what it was--it's what I assumed, a rootier cultivar of celery). It was fucking awesome. A hearty but not overly-rich creamy soup. The apple made its presence known without making the soup too sweet and the brown butter did what brown butter does when well made--be delicious. And where there's brown butter there're hazelnuts. They're the platonic lesbians of tastiness.
Entree:I love beets. I love beets a lot. I ordered the roasted golden beet sandwich with herbed chevre on pain de mie. The sandwich came simply but elegantly presented on a large plate with a small mixed green salad. The beets were fresh and flavorful--very mellow, even for golden beets, but with an earthiness that shone through. The chevre was what it was--a touch pungent with basic garden herbs--nothing remarkable, but pleasant. A thin layer of aioli worked nicely with the beets but clashed awkwardly with the chevre, blending in just enough that it succeeded only in making the cheese taste weirdly garlicky. But like I said it worked really well with the beet end of things. What to do?
Complaint: I didn't mind that the sandwich was cold--the beets, cheese, etc. I liked that. But why did the bread have to be toasted but served at room temperature? The bread was great fresh pain de mie, but room temperature toast does little for me but tear up the roof of my mouth.The side salad was lightly dressed, fresh, and diverse--arugula, spinach, and purple onion being the principals.
Fries:
Luka's fries are great--thick and filling with a hefty amount of residual oil. Crispy outside, soft inside, etc. They still haven't won me over with the sauces--they aren't bad, but they lack distinction. The smoked paprika ketchup is my favorite, but I'd love it spicier. The same goes for the other sauces--the herb aioli could be way herbier and the chipotle aioli could be smokier and spicier. The fries are so thick and have their own strong flavor that the sauces need to be more assertive or else they're just along for the ride.
Dessert:I didn't plan to get dessert, but I did anyway--I'm a sucker for warm, rich, seasonal fruit desserts (almost as much as I'm a sucker for being punched in the face with dark chocolate). The almond and huckleberry clafouti with lemon creme fraiche was pretty damn good. Served in a wide shallow ramekin with a layer of warm sweet huckleberries on the bottom and an eggy cakey almond batter on top, all nice and warm with the slowly melting dollop of the creme fraiche and a few fresh huckleberries finishing it off. The cake layer was a little too thick, overwhelming the berriness of the berries, shrouding them in too much batter. The cake itself, however, was buttery and not too sweet.
In Conclusion:I'm adding Luka's to my regular lunch destinations--it's not just for late night french fries. Though I went nuts and spent $40, I could've easily put together a great lunch for half that. Great food in a relaxed, hip, but unpretentious atmosphere. Plus you can park easily (and it's not full of neo-yuppies) at 2:00 in the afternoon.
Luka's Taproom and Lounge
Cuisine: Belgian-inspired California pub food
Price range: $7-$13 (sandwiches) $12-$19 (entrees)
HFF's cost for one (soup, sandwich, fries, dessert, beer, tax & generous tip): $40
Reservations: (I think so) 510-451-4677
www.lukasoakland.com
2221 Broadway (at W. Grand)
Oakland, Ca 94612
Saturday, January 21, 2006
Stokes Restaurant - Monterey, CA
Why:
I decided to make my inaugural entry about Stokes because it honestly was the kind of restaurant that I created this website for. Newspaper reviews had given this California cuisine venture in an 1830's adobe in old town Monterey good but not stellar reviews seemingly based on vague "service" complaints. The space sounded awesome, the menu looked stellar, and it really was the only fine-dining establishment in Monterey (other than the uber-pricey Pacific's Edge) that featured cuisine that sounded interesting.
Who:
Me & girlfriend Charlie.
The Space:
CitySearch reviews had described the restaurant as "hard to find" but we had no problem spotting the enormous lit-up restored adobe. Street parking was easy and there's also a large lot. We walked up a path through a garden area to the left-most of several large wooden doors.
The restaurant is in the historic Stokes Adobe, named for its most prominent owner, English sailor-turned-physician James Stokes who took up residence in 1837. It has been impeccably restored, almost to the point where it looks like a custom Mission-style home or seriously bourgie Chevy's. Not that that's a bad thing.
Entering through the door, we entered a bright foyer with a large long bar on the right-hand side. We were greeted warmly, led down a hall into the largest of Stokes' several dining rooms, and seated in large cushioned wicker chairs at a spacious linen-set table.
The Wine:
Wine Spectator gave Stokes' wine list some attention and accolades and I found it to be quite good. It did suffer from Cal-Med wine list syndrome where virtually every option (particularly on the whites) is Californian or French. And then of those 90% are Chardonnays or Sauvignon Blancs. We opted for a bottle of the 2004 Au Bon Climat Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc blend. Wine arrived promptly. Though very very light-bodied when first poured, as the bottle warmed through the meal it developed a nice complexity and a lingering finish.
First Course:
Stokes features small plates (the bar serves these late) and more traditional appetizers. We opted for one of each.
The house-cured prosciutto with blood orange and chevre was excellent with beautiful deep red blood oranges and only slightly pungent goat cheese, however we both agreed that the prosciutto was good but unremarkable--it had a waxy texture and didn't melt apart in the mouth the way some prosciuttos do. Its flavor was fatty, salty, porky, and delicious, however.
Our second appetizer was the duck confit leg (pictured behind the wine) with warm spinach, bacon, and soft-boiled egg. This was my personal favorite savory dish of the night. The duck had a thick layer of fat, crisp skin, and melt-away tender meat. Spinach was very fresh, wilted just barely and tossed with thick chunks of bacon. The dish let the strong duck flavors speak without trying to mellow it out with a sweet sauce or hefty starch. Soft-boiled egg was served halved and (surprisingly) cold, but the yolk was cooked to a perfect soft but not runny consistency.
First (minor) service/food timing complaint--why did our cold prosciutto dish arrive at the same time as our hot duck dish? I've always understood that the point of tapas and small plates in general was to get something salty and delicious for patrons to enjoy as soon as possible--thus making them more likely to order more food or drinks sooner. Oh well. Common problem.
Entrees:
The entree list was an impressive array of pork, beef, chicken, pizza with homemade sausage, calzone, (suddenly trendy) arctic char, mahi, and vegetarian crepes. All were served with fresh California produce as starches or veggies. Charlie ordered the crispy pork shoulder with swiss chard and rosemary polenta. Though I usually don't seafood out (because I'm usually disappointed) I opted for the crusted mahi with artichokes and onions.
Charlie's pork was fabulous. A thick, meaty chunk with crispy flavorful skin and tender, moderately fatty flesh. The swiss chard was cooked just enough, bright, and not bitter. It still had enough character to hold its own with the pork. The polenta, served in a fried wedge, was strong with fresh rosemary, lending its own tones to the strong mix of flavors on the plate. We did both think that this was way too much food to put on one plate, which proved to be a theme here.
Before I ordered my mahi, I asked the server how it was cooked and she said "about medium." This was good for me because, well, I don't like overcooked fish (mahi in particular turns into a dry brick when overdone). The thick piece of mahi I got was, however, well-done (though not overcooked) but still moist. I would guess that it was cooked on the grill to about medium/medium-well and then cooked through on the plate. This is why I don't think fish should be served in thick cuts. The mahi was very fresh with a clean taste that only had hints of that meaty taste that lesser cuts of this fish get. The crust was nice and crisp. The veggies, while not overcooked, were not firm enough for my tastes and their flavors blended together in a fresh-tasting but indistinguishable mass.
This dish exhibited for me one of my dislikes in a lot of California cooking--really great ingredients impeccably prepared but without any real character. The thick mass of mahi was quite good, but there was so much of it in every bite that I found it tiresome. The crisp crust of breadcrumbs and parmesan was a great textural addition, but a millimeter-thick crust on an inch and a half-thick chunk of fish doesn't hold its own very well. I also would have liked more spice in the crust or a small amount of a lightly spicy sauce or broth to add a stronger flavor dimension that would brighten up the delicate fish and vegetable flavors.
Desserts:
I'm a big dessert fan, but rarely do I find desserts out that are exceptional--especially chocolate desserts. Too often they're caught up in that same Cal cuisine trap of offering quality and nuance at the expense of big flavor sensations. It's fucking dessert--it should be big, bold, and inspiring. What do people do after dessert out at a nice restaurant? Probably have sex. All pastry chefs should keep this fact in mind.
That being said, Stokes presented the best desserts that I've had out at a restaurant in recent (and not so recent) memory.
We were only going to order one, but couldn't decide so we got two. The first, "Pumpkin Trifle," came at the recommendation of the manager, Dino, who came by and chatted with us for a few minutes. Two thick slices of house-made ginger cake with pumpkin mousse, ginger creme fraiche, and candied pistachios. The ginger cake was thick, moist, and molasses-y with a lot of ginger flavor. The pumpkin mousse was not overly sweet, creamy, with a lot of pumpkin (not just cinnamon and allspice) flavor. The creme fraiche added a welcome tartness, contrasting nicely with the crunchy sweet pistachios mixed generously throughout. All the flavors were strong, they all worked together, and each bite was a mid-90's style massive in my mouth, complete with glowsticks.
Second dessert was a little more straightforward, but no less delicious: a Scharffen-Berger dark chocolate torte. I've had similar dishes in the past, and they often end up just being dark chocolate melted into a pie crust--having virtually the same finished consistency as a bar of Scharffen-Berger chocolate. In this case, the chocolate was mixed with cream just enough to be soft (without being mousse-y). There wasn't much (if any) added sugar in the torte, so the strong bitter (though still sweet) flavors of the chocolate shone nicely. A dollop of creme fraiche on the top was an unnecessary but unobtrusive addition to the dish. I appreciated that it didn't come with an overly sweet whipped cream on top. It was just a straight-forward, simple, dark chocolate punch in the face.
In Conclusion:
Stokes was great. Very very good food in a beautiful room. Food was prepared well, ingredients sourced wonderfully. Service was unobtrusive, fairly accessible, though a touch distant (but who cares?). The only complaints I had were not unique to Stokes. Simply your best bet for dining in Monterey, I think. Though our dinner was not cheap because we like to actually have fun when we go out to eat, a more "value-minded" diner (gag) could get out of there full on great food for less than $40 a person.
As a side note, as I waited for Charlie to get out of the restroom, I ordered a shot of Fernet-Branca (split) at the bar on the way out. As I said, we were incredibly full. We ended up not being charged, which was a thoughtful (and business-savvy) way to end the evening. We'll hit up Stokes on every overnight trip to Monterey for as long as it's open, I'd imagine.
Stokes Restaurant
Cuisine: Cal-Med
Entree Price Range: $15-$26
HFF's Cost for 2 people (2 starters, 2 entrees, 2 desserts, bottle of wine, coffee, tax, generous tip): $150
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 831-373-1110
www.stokesrestaurant.com
500 Hartnell St.
Monterey, Ca 93940
I decided to make my inaugural entry about Stokes because it honestly was the kind of restaurant that I created this website for. Newspaper reviews had given this California cuisine venture in an 1830's adobe in old town Monterey good but not stellar reviews seemingly based on vague "service" complaints. The space sounded awesome, the menu looked stellar, and it really was the only fine-dining establishment in Monterey (other than the uber-pricey Pacific's Edge) that featured cuisine that sounded interesting.
Who:
Me & girlfriend Charlie.
The Space:
CitySearch reviews had described the restaurant as "hard to find" but we had no problem spotting the enormous lit-up restored adobe. Street parking was easy and there's also a large lot. We walked up a path through a garden area to the left-most of several large wooden doors.
The restaurant is in the historic Stokes Adobe, named for its most prominent owner, English sailor-turned-physician James Stokes who took up residence in 1837. It has been impeccably restored, almost to the point where it looks like a custom Mission-style home or seriously bourgie Chevy's. Not that that's a bad thing.
Entering through the door, we entered a bright foyer with a large long bar on the right-hand side. We were greeted warmly, led down a hall into the largest of Stokes' several dining rooms, and seated in large cushioned wicker chairs at a spacious linen-set table.
The Wine:
Wine Spectator gave Stokes' wine list some attention and accolades and I found it to be quite good. It did suffer from Cal-Med wine list syndrome where virtually every option (particularly on the whites) is Californian or French. And then of those 90% are Chardonnays or Sauvignon Blancs. We opted for a bottle of the 2004 Au Bon Climat Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc blend. Wine arrived promptly. Though very very light-bodied when first poured, as the bottle warmed through the meal it developed a nice complexity and a lingering finish.
First Course:Stokes features small plates (the bar serves these late) and more traditional appetizers. We opted for one of each.
The house-cured prosciutto with blood orange and chevre was excellent with beautiful deep red blood oranges and only slightly pungent goat cheese, however we both agreed that the prosciutto was good but unremarkable--it had a waxy texture and didn't melt apart in the mouth the way some prosciuttos do. Its flavor was fatty, salty, porky, and delicious, however.
Our second appetizer was the duck confit leg (pictured behind the wine) with warm spinach, bacon, and soft-boiled egg. This was my personal favorite savory dish of the night. The duck had a thick layer of fat, crisp skin, and melt-away tender meat. Spinach was very fresh, wilted just barely and tossed with thick chunks of bacon. The dish let the strong duck flavors speak without trying to mellow it out with a sweet sauce or hefty starch. Soft-boiled egg was served halved and (surprisingly) cold, but the yolk was cooked to a perfect soft but not runny consistency.
First (minor) service/food timing complaint--why did our cold prosciutto dish arrive at the same time as our hot duck dish? I've always understood that the point of tapas and small plates in general was to get something salty and delicious for patrons to enjoy as soon as possible--thus making them more likely to order more food or drinks sooner. Oh well. Common problem.
Entrees:
The entree list was an impressive array of pork, beef, chicken, pizza with homemade sausage, calzone, (suddenly trendy) arctic char, mahi, and vegetarian crepes. All were served with fresh California produce as starches or veggies. Charlie ordered the crispy pork shoulder with swiss chard and rosemary polenta. Though I usually don't seafood out (because I'm usually disappointed) I opted for the crusted mahi with artichokes and onions.
Charlie's pork was fabulous. A thick, meaty chunk with crispy flavorful skin and tender, moderately fatty flesh. The swiss chard was cooked just enough, bright, and not bitter. It still had enough character to hold its own with the pork. The polenta, served in a fried wedge, was strong with fresh rosemary, lending its own tones to the strong mix of flavors on the plate. We did both think that this was way too much food to put on one plate, which proved to be a theme here.
Before I ordered my mahi, I asked the server how it was cooked and she said "about medium." This was good for me because, well, I don't like overcooked fish (mahi in particular turns into a dry brick when overdone). The thick piece of mahi I got was, however, well-done (though not overcooked) but still moist. I would guess that it was cooked on the grill to about medium/medium-well and then cooked through on the plate. This is why I don't think fish should be served in thick cuts. The mahi was very fresh with a clean taste that only had hints of that meaty taste that lesser cuts of this fish get. The crust was nice and crisp. The veggies, while not overcooked, were not firm enough for my tastes and their flavors blended together in a fresh-tasting but indistinguishable mass.This dish exhibited for me one of my dislikes in a lot of California cooking--really great ingredients impeccably prepared but without any real character. The thick mass of mahi was quite good, but there was so much of it in every bite that I found it tiresome. The crisp crust of breadcrumbs and parmesan was a great textural addition, but a millimeter-thick crust on an inch and a half-thick chunk of fish doesn't hold its own very well. I also would have liked more spice in the crust or a small amount of a lightly spicy sauce or broth to add a stronger flavor dimension that would brighten up the delicate fish and vegetable flavors.
Desserts:I'm a big dessert fan, but rarely do I find desserts out that are exceptional--especially chocolate desserts. Too often they're caught up in that same Cal cuisine trap of offering quality and nuance at the expense of big flavor sensations. It's fucking dessert--it should be big, bold, and inspiring. What do people do after dessert out at a nice restaurant? Probably have sex. All pastry chefs should keep this fact in mind.
That being said, Stokes presented the best desserts that I've had out at a restaurant in recent (and not so recent) memory.
We were only going to order one, but couldn't decide so we got two. The first, "Pumpkin Trifle," came at the recommendation of the manager, Dino, who came by and chatted with us for a few minutes. Two thick slices of house-made ginger cake with pumpkin mousse, ginger creme fraiche, and candied pistachios. The ginger cake was thick, moist, and molasses-y with a lot of ginger flavor. The pumpkin mousse was not overly sweet, creamy, with a lot of pumpkin (not just cinnamon and allspice) flavor. The creme fraiche added a welcome tartness, contrasting nicely with the crunchy sweet pistachios mixed generously throughout. All the flavors were strong, they all worked together, and each bite was a mid-90's style massive in my mouth, complete with glowsticks.
Second dessert was a little more straightforward, but no less delicious: a Scharffen-Berger dark chocolate torte. I've had similar dishes in the past, and they often end up just being dark chocolate melted into a pie crust--having virtually the same finished consistency as a bar of Scharffen-Berger chocolate. In this case, the chocolate was mixed with cream just enough to be soft (without being mousse-y). There wasn't much (if any) added sugar in the torte, so the strong bitter (though still sweet) flavors of the chocolate shone nicely. A dollop of creme fraiche on the top was an unnecessary but unobtrusive addition to the dish. I appreciated that it didn't come with an overly sweet whipped cream on top. It was just a straight-forward, simple, dark chocolate punch in the face.
In Conclusion:Stokes was great. Very very good food in a beautiful room. Food was prepared well, ingredients sourced wonderfully. Service was unobtrusive, fairly accessible, though a touch distant (but who cares?). The only complaints I had were not unique to Stokes. Simply your best bet for dining in Monterey, I think. Though our dinner was not cheap because we like to actually have fun when we go out to eat, a more "value-minded" diner (gag) could get out of there full on great food for less than $40 a person.
As a side note, as I waited for Charlie to get out of the restroom, I ordered a shot of Fernet-Branca (split) at the bar on the way out. As I said, we were incredibly full. We ended up not being charged, which was a thoughtful (and business-savvy) way to end the evening. We'll hit up Stokes on every overnight trip to Monterey for as long as it's open, I'd imagine.
Stokes Restaurant
Cuisine: Cal-Med
Entree Price Range: $15-$26
HFF's Cost for 2 people (2 starters, 2 entrees, 2 desserts, bottle of wine, coffee, tax, generous tip): $150
Reservations: OpenTable.com or 831-373-1110
www.stokesrestaurant.com
500 Hartnell St.
Monterey, Ca 93940
Tuesday, January 17, 2006
Welcome!
Welcome to Horny for Food, the Bay Area (and the world!) food blog by Berkeley food personality David J.D.!
My decision to start this site came from my frustration with both internet restaurant sites like Chow Hound and CitySearch and conventional newspaper reviews. All that the internet sites usually offer are peoples' (who can't use apostrophes correctly) ill-informed opinions with little foundation, knowledge, or rationale. They'll make judgments and declarations without articulating the all-important "why" behind their complaints. Newspaper reviews often just read as a rote description of the menu interspersed with flowery adjectives and details of minor food or service hiccups blown up into disasters of epic proportions.
At Horny for Food, here's what you WON'T get:
- you'll never here me use phrases like "the Caesar salad just didn't work" or "the server was clueless" or "poor wine list."
- the words "danced across my palate"
- bitching about portion size, noise, or how cold a restaurant is
- hanging prepositions
- stars, bells, numbers, dollar signs, letter grades or any other objective rating of a restaurant
- syphilis
You WILL, however, get:
- one guy's opinion (mine) grounded in my industry experience, food and drink knowledge, personal cooking adventures, and a hefty dumpster full of love
- detailed course-by-course discussion of my meals at restaurants wherever I go (mostly in the SF Bay Aea) interspersed with rants, diatribes, and manifestos about food and dining issues in general
- an understanding of MY taste in food and dining to see if it matches your own (and whether you should give a fuck about the views on this site)
- a brief capsule description of what was eaten, how many people ate it, and how much it cost
- gonorrhea
All I can promise is that everything I write will be grounded, articulate, and (most importantly) informed. You may not agree with it, and that's alright. At least it'll be interesting.
Enjoy.
My decision to start this site came from my frustration with both internet restaurant sites like Chow Hound and CitySearch and conventional newspaper reviews. All that the internet sites usually offer are peoples' (who can't use apostrophes correctly) ill-informed opinions with little foundation, knowledge, or rationale. They'll make judgments and declarations without articulating the all-important "why" behind their complaints. Newspaper reviews often just read as a rote description of the menu interspersed with flowery adjectives and details of minor food or service hiccups blown up into disasters of epic proportions.
At Horny for Food, here's what you WON'T get:
- you'll never here me use phrases like "the Caesar salad just didn't work" or "the server was clueless" or "poor wine list."
- the words "danced across my palate"
- bitching about portion size, noise, or how cold a restaurant is
- hanging prepositions
- stars, bells, numbers, dollar signs, letter grades or any other objective rating of a restaurant
- syphilis
You WILL, however, get:
- one guy's opinion (mine) grounded in my industry experience, food and drink knowledge, personal cooking adventures, and a hefty dumpster full of love
- detailed course-by-course discussion of my meals at restaurants wherever I go (mostly in the SF Bay Aea) interspersed with rants, diatribes, and manifestos about food and dining issues in general
- an understanding of MY taste in food and dining to see if it matches your own (and whether you should give a fuck about the views on this site)
- a brief capsule description of what was eaten, how many people ate it, and how much it cost
- gonorrhea
All I can promise is that everything I write will be grounded, articulate, and (most importantly) informed. You may not agree with it, and that's alright. At least it'll be interesting.
Enjoy.
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